Love Paper Lantern With Lights: DIY For Valentine’s Day

Instructions

STEP 1: GET MY FREE LOVE PAPER LANTERN DESIGNS

First, download my Northern Lights Shadow Box files from my free library – look for Design #722. Alternatively, you can use the Save This Project form near the top of this post and the design link will be emailed to you.

TIP: If you’re not sure how to upload, go to jennifermaker.com/svgs to learn how to unzip and upload SVG files.

Inside the template folder, you’ll see two versions of the design -- one with score lines that you can make using a scoring tool, and one with dashed cut lines that only needs the Fine-Point Blade. The scored version has “score" in the file name, and the dashed cut line version has "noscore" in the file name.

For this tutorial, I’ll show you how to make the version with dashed cut lines. If you’d like to make the version with score lines using a scoring wheel or stylus, you can refer to my tutorial to learn how to adjust the files. All Score layers in the file have a red color swatch, no fill color in the Layers Panel, and are grouped with their corresponding Cut layers.

STEP 2: PREPARE YOUR LOVE PAPER LANTERN DESIGN

1. Open Cricut Design Space and click “New Project.”

2. Click “Upload” and then “Upload Image.”

3. Click “Browse.”

4. Select the SVG file you want. I’ll use “love-paper-lantern-noscore-jennifermaker-SVG.”

5. On the Prepare to Upload screen, it will say “Cut Image” with the design preview.

6. Click “Upload.”

7. Find your design in Recent Uploads and add it to the Canvas.

8. Click the minus (-) sign to zoom out to see the entire design with the layers at the top and pieces for the base and frame at the bottom.

NOTE: I’ve used different shades of gray to make the layers easier to see, but you can use whatever color cardstock you’d like. If you’re adding lights, make sure your cardstock is light enough that light can shine through it.

NOTE: Since the design is so intricate, I don’t recommend reducing the size of the file.

9. You don’t need to do anything to prepare the “noscore” file, so your lantern design is ready to cut!

10. Make sure the correct machine is selected in the top right.

11. Click “Make.”

12. If prompted, click "On Mat," choose your mat size, and click “Confirm.”

STEP 3: APPLY VINYL TO THE BACK OF YOUR CARDSTOCK

If you’re using the same color setup as me in Design Space, mats 3, 4, 5, and 6 are very intricate. Reinforcing the cardstock for those layers with clear or frosted permanent adhesive vinyl helps get cleaner cuts.

1. Cut pieces of vinyl about 8.5” x 9”, or a little bigger than your design’s layers.

TIP: Use the grid on the vinyl’s back to help get straight cuts.

TIP: If the cut vinyl keeps curling, flatten it out under a stack of books for an hour or so.

2. Take one sheet of vinyl and one 8.5” x 11” sheet of 65 lb. cardstock.

3. Place the cardstock face down.

4. Peel back about an inch of the vinyl’s backing from one end.

5. Fold it down, using the grid lines as your guide.

6. Line up the edges, then apply the vinyl’s exposed end to one edge of the cardstock.

TIP: Don’t let it stick until you’re sure of the placement!

7. Use the XL scraper to adhere the vinyl.

8. Reach one hand under the vinyl sheet, between it and the cardstock. Pull a small section of the vinyl’s backing away from the edge you just secured.

9. With your other hand, use the scraper to press the vinyl down onto the cardstock in small sections.

10. Peel the backing off from underneath as you go.

TIP: Work slowly and smooth out any wrinkles before peeling off more backing.

11. When you’re finished, cut off any excess vinyl from around the cardstock’s edges.

STEP 4: CUT YOUR LOVE PAPER LANTERN LAYERS

1. On the Design Space Prepare Screen, you should have 7 mats.

2. Change the Material Size for each mat to match your paper choices. I’m using 8.5” x 11” white cardstock for everything other than the red mat.

3. Select the first mat again and click “Continue.”

4. On the Make Screen, check if your first mat needs plain or vinyl-backed cardstock.

NOTE: I used the “Medium Cardstock - 80 lb (216 gsm)” setting with “More” Pressure for both, but remember that all machines are different and you may need to adjust your settings.

5. For a plain cardstock mat, put the piece face up on a green StandardGrip machine mat.

6. Use a brayer to make sure it's fully adhered.

7. Check that your Fine-Point Blade is clean and in the clamp.

8. Press the flashing “Load/Unload” button to load the prepared mat into your Cricut.

9. Press the flashing “Go” button to begin cutting.

10. When it has finished cutting, unload the mat, flip it over onto your work surface, and roll it back to release the cardstock.

11. When an intricate layer comes up, clean your blade.

12. Place the prepared sheet vinyl side down on your green StandardGrip machine mat.

13. Position any wrinkles in the vinyl outside of where the design will cut.

14. Adhere it with a brayer, then load and begin cutting the mat.

15. Before unloading your mat, check to make sure the pieces cut all the way through.

16. If they didn’t, press the "Go" button to cut them again in the same spot.

17. When the cuts are complete, unload the mat, flip it over, and roll it back to release the reinforced cardstock.

18. You can slide your spatula gently under intricate pieces to remove them, but the vinyl on the back will help prevent them from tearing.

19. After removing your cut layers from the mat, you may need to peel away the excess materials around the cut area and use a weeding tool to poke out the inner pieces, as the vinyl will make the pieces “stick” in place.

20. Cut the rest of the reinforced cardstock mats the same way.

21. For the red mat, search for and select the “Glitter Cardstock” setting if you’re using glitter cardstock like me.

22. Select “More” for the Pressure.

23. Place your glitter cardstock face up on a green StandardGrip machine mat and use the same steps to load, cut, and remove the pieces.

24. Here are what all my cut pieces look like.

STEP 5: ASSEMBLE YOUR LANTERN BASE AND LAYERS

1. Grab the three pieces for the base.

2. Place a small side piece on your work surface with the pointed edge to the right.

3. Align your scraper along the first dashed cut or score line on the right and fold the small section up.

4. Keep moving to the left, supporting and folding the other creases the same way so they start curling into a tube.

5. Run your scraper along the folds to sharpen them.

6. Use Steps 2-5 to prepare the other side piece the same way.

7. Place the large base on your work surface so the creases run vertically.

8. One side at a time, fold along the dashed or scored lines from the outside in.

9. Support the sections with your scraper to start the creases, then use your scraper to sharpen the creases.

NOTE: They should all fold the same way so the creased sections start rolling in toward each other.

10. Starting on one side of the base, add glue to the back of the long tab at the outside edge.

11. Roll it toward the middle and align it on the base.

NOTE: Make sure the edges are flush and the tab touches the side wall.

12. Gently put your fingers in the sides to press the ends of the tab in place.

13. Press down along the top edge so the glue bonds well to the base.

TIP: It’s harder to tell if the tab is secure further in, but you can poke your tweezers or the narrow end of your spatula in from each end to carefully adhere the tab.

14. Hold the wall and tab in place for about 30 seconds so the glue is completely set.

15. Use Steps 10-14 to create and secure the other long wall.

16. Roll one of the small side pieces up and glue its bottom tabs together to make a rectangular tube for one short wall.

17. Repeat with the other small side piece to make the second short wall.

NOTE: Each small side piece will attach to the base with its glued seam at the bottom and the angles pointing in.

18. Put some glue on the bottom of a small side piece.

TIP: The inner corners of the long sides will go inside the small pieces, so you might need to move them out of the way just a little.

19. Press a small side in place so the outer joints are flush.

20. Once the bottom is dry, pull the small side piece back a bit and add dots of glue to the top of the long sides where they overlap.

21. Push the small wall back in place and press down on the glued areas until they dry.

22. Use Steps 18-21 for the second short side piece to complete the base!

23. Now, lay out the side frames and inner layers.

NOTE: If you’re adding color to the birds like me, put a little glue on each glitter bird shape’s back, avoiding the cutouts. Then secure them to the matching silhouettes on the front of Layer 1.

24. Take a side frame piece and use your scraper to help fold and crease the long tabs. Both tabs should face the same way and be perpendicular to the frame piece.

25. Then repeat on the other side frame piece.

TIP: They’re exactly the same no matter which direction they’re facing, so don’t worry about mixing them up!

26. Make sure your layers are correctly oriented with Layer 1 - the one with the birds - on top. The heart gets smaller the further you go back.

27. It’s easier to assemble one side at a time, so grab a frame side piece and Layer 1. Make sure the folded tabs on the frame face toward the layer.

28. Each layer has two small tabs on the side that match the slits on the frame pieces. Gently put the first layer’s bottom tab into the lower slot on the frame.

29. Then put the top tab into the upper slot.

TIP: They’re a tight fit to make the lantern sturdy, so tweezers can help pull the tabs through.

30. Once both tabs are through, gently pull them down to lock them into place.

TIP: You can tell they’re locked when the bottom of the layer is flush with the bottom of the frame.

31. Carefully let the first layer fall out of the way so you can see the next set of slots.

32. Add Layer 2 to the next set of slots using Steps 28-30.

TIP: It can help to reach through the heart to maneuver the tabs. Just be very careful that you don’t bend or rip the delicate elements. The vinyl reinforcement helps here!

33. Add the third and fourth layers in order using Steps 28-30.

34. Take the other side frame piece and make sure the folded tabs face the lantern layers.

35. Starting with Layer 1, use the same process as before to put the tabs through the correct slots and lock them in place.

NOTE: The second side takes some patience and gentle maneuvering, so take your time to avoid damaging the tabs and delicate design elements.

36. Once the last layer is in place, you can see how it looks so far in the base!

STEP 6: ADD THE LIGHTS TO THE BACK LAYER

1. Grab your fairy lights and the back layer (the one without any cutouts in the center).

2. Unwind the fairy lights and make sure they work.

TIP: Some kinds have a little battery protector tab you might have to remove.

3. It’s important that the switch is accessible, and that you can change the batteries, so add glue dots to the side of the battery pack without screws.

TIP: The easiest way to manage the super sticky glue dots is to rip a section of backing paper off with a dot, then use the paper to press the adhesive in place, and peel the paper away.

4. Then adhere the battery pack to the inside of the cardstock piece, about half an inch in from the left side, so the frame’s tab can be attached there later. Make sure the switch is right at the bottom edge so you can turn the lights on and off.

5. Use a few glue dots to secure the wire without lights right by the battery pack, but don’t adhere anything to the pack.

6. The thin wire is difficult to adhere the glue dots to, so stick one dot to the first light, then press it in place right near the coiled section.

7. Attach the lights across the bottom and up the right side of the cardstock back, adhering every other light. Remember, leave the ½” along the right side clear to add the frame’s tab later!

NOTE: We want to light up the sides, top, and bottom of the panel without interfering with the final assembly, so the ½” on either side where the frames will get glued must remain clear. Also, keeping the lights away from the middle will create a softer glow.

8. Keep adding lights along the top, staying about the same distance from the upper edge.

9. Continue down the left side.

10. When you get to the battery pack, try to feed a light or two over it so there isn’t a dark spot, but don’t adhere them to the plastic. That way, they won’t interfere with changing the batteries.

NOTE: Make sure the lights and wire don’t stick up too much.

11. Use the rest of the lights to weave back and forth across the bottom section of the cardstock.

12. You don’t want any of the lights or wire to be visible through the heart cutouts, so hold the rest of the assembled lantern in place against the back piece and look down at everything to check the placement.

13. If anything doesn’t look right, adjust it.

14. If any lights or wire sections stick up, try to tack them down with more glue dots because there’s only about ⅜” clearance before the next layer.

15. Turn on your lights one more time to make sure everything looks good!

STEP 7: FINISH THE LOVE PAPER LANTERN ASSEMBLY

1. Add glue to the back of the lantern’s side frame tab that won’t be near the battery pack.

2. Place the back in position, making sure the edges align and the lights stay in place.

TIP: You can flatten the layers and press against the glued areas to make sure they adhere well.

3. Then, hold up the back piece and add glue to the other side’s tab.

4. Lower the back piece down and make sure the edges line up without disturbing the lights or battery pack.

TIP: You can’t really flatten this side as well, so sneak your fingers in from the sides to help press the tab in place while the glue dries.

5. Once the back is completely dry, flip the lantern over and glue the front frame piece to the side tabs using the same process.

TIP: Remember, make sure the edges line up!

6. Slide the assembled layers into the base and your lantern is complete!

STEP 8: SHOW IT OFF!

Your 3D love paper lantern is complete and ready for display!

To turn on the lights, take the lantern out of the base and flip the switch at the bottom. Then replace the lantern in its base. If you need to replace the batteries, take the lantern out of the base and gently lift the back layer. Then carefully pry up the battery pack.

Once you’ve replaced the batteries, sneak the pack back in place and gently press down to re-adhere the glue dots.