Make a 3D Paper Animal Lantern: Cutest DIY Lanterns Ever!

Instructions

STEP 1: GET MY FREE PAPER ANIMAL LANTERN DESIGNS

First, download my Paper Animal Lantern files from my free library – look for Design #650. Alternatively, you can use the Save This Project form near the top of this post and the design link will be emailed to you.

In the SVG folder, you’ll find “score” and “no-score” versions for both variations of my design to cut on a cutting machine. Score versions are for use with a scoring tool, while the no-score versions can be used without a scoring tool, or if you prefer dashed cut lines instead of scores.

There is also a DXF folder with cut files, and a PDF folder with versions you can print and cut by hand.

Both designs use a similar assembly process, but detailed instructions for the Hummingbird version can be found in the Advance member area.

TIP: If you’re not sure how to upload, go to jennifermaker.com/svgs to learn how to unzip and upload SVG files.

STEP 2: PREPARE AND CUT YOUR FOX LANTERN DESIGN

CRICUT DESIGN SPACE

1. In Cricut Design Space, open a blank Canvas.
   
2. Click “Upload” and then “Upload Image.”
   
3. Click “Browse” and select the SVG file you want to use.
   NOTE: I’ll use the “score” version of the “fox” design.
   
4. Click “Open,” and then “Continue.”
   
5. Click “Upload” to add the design to your Canvas.
   TIP: You can click the “Minus (-)” icon to zoom out and see everything.
   
   
6. Click “Save” and give your project a name.
   
7. Ungroup the design.
   
   NOTE: On your Canvas you have the fox’s body frame and body detail pieces for the feet, the tail fur, the face fur, the nose, the eyes, the tips of the ears, and the inner ears. There are also two lantern frames, two lantern bases, three white lantern panels for the front, and three orange lantern panels for the back. You also have six optional diffuser panels.
   
8. If you don’t want to cut the diffuser pieces, drag the lantern panels away to expose the gray diffuser layers. Select the diffuser pieces and click the “Trash” icon to delete them.
   
   
9. Scroll down in the Layers Panel and you’ll see there are still six groups of layers, each indicated by a small arrow.
   NOTE: We need to adjust these groups to make sure the score lines are drawn onto the panel tabs correctly.
   
10. In the Layers panel, find the first group and click the arrow to expand it.
    
    
11. Select the top layer with the solid lines and change its “Operation” to “Score” so the Cricut knows to make the crease lines where your panel tabs will be folded.
    
    NOTE: The score lines for this project are all red, which is reflected in the Color Box when selecting a line layer.
    
12. Click the Group layer with the arrow to select both layers in this group, then click “Attach” to keep your crease lines with your cut shape.
    
    NOTE: The newly Attached group will jump to the top of the Layers Panel.
    
13. Repeat Steps 10-12 for the five remaining groups of panels, changing the lines to “Score” and Attaching them to their cut shape.
    
14. Your project is ready to cut!
    
    

CUTTING

1. Make sure the correct machine is selected in the top right.
   
2. Click “Make.”
   
3. On the Prepare screen, make sure the correct Material Size is selected for your materials.
   NOTE: I used “12 in x 12 in” for my cardstock mats, and changed the vellum mats to “8.5 in x 11 in” to match my material.
   
   
4. After you’ve prepared your mats, select the first mat again and click “Continue.”
   
5. On the Make screen, set the Material Settings for your first mat.
   NOTE: I used the “Medium Cardstock - 80 lb (216 gsm)” setting with “More” Pressure for my 80 lb cardstock. You can use this setting for the 65 lb cardstock as well.
   
   NOTE: If you cut your fox from 83 lb Orange cardstock, I found that the “Heavy Cardstock - 100 lb (270 gsm)” material setting with “More” Pressure works well.
   
6. Place your first mat’s material face up on a green StandardGrip machine mat.
   
7. Use a brayer to make sure it’s fully adhered.
   
   
8. Check that your Premium Fine-Point Blade is clean and in the clamp.
   NOTE: If your mat has scoring lines, follow the screen prompts to select and add your scoring tool. Click “Edit Tools” and select the Scoring Stylus to load both the scoring tool and the blade at the same time. Or you can select the Scoring Wheel and switch tools when prompted. Click “Apply” to close the “Edit Tools” window.
   
   NOTE: If you’re using the "no-score" version, you won’t see the Scoring Tool prompts since all of your lines are cuts.
   
9. Press the flashing “Load/Unload” button to load the prepared mat into your Cricut.
   
10. Press the flashing “Go” button to begin cutting.
    
11. When it has finished cutting, don’t unload the mat right away. Instead, gently lift a corner to make sure the material is cut all the way. If not, press the “Go” button again to make the same cuts in the same spots.
    
    
12. When the cuts are complete, unload the mat, flip it over onto your work surface, and roll it back to release the material.
    TIP: If you have any issues with your cuts, check out my Tips for Cleaner Cuts tutorial.
    
13. Use a weeding tool to gently pop out any cutouts that stick to the design and a spatula to help lift delicate pieces off of the mat.
    
14. Use a scraper to remove any small cutouts that remain on the machine mat.
    
15. When you get to your diffuser mat, adjust the material settings to “Vellum” with “More” Pressure.
    
    
16. Place your vellum face up on a blue LightGrip machine mat, then repeat steps 7-14 to cut your pieces.
    NOTE: A blue LightGrip mat works better for vellum than a StandardGrip mat.
    
    
17. After you’ve cut all your pieces, lay them face up in organized piles. You should have:
    

• For the body: one body frame
  
• For the body details: two feet, one fur tail piece, one fur face/chest piece, one nose/mouth piece, two black eye pieces, two white eye pieces, two ear tips, and two inner ear pieces.
  
• For the lantern: two oval lantern frames, two circular bases, six decorative panels, and six diffuser pieces (if you cut them)
  
  

STEP 3: ASSEMBLE YOUR FOX LANTERN

1. Lay the fox’s body frame face up on your work area, with the tail on the left side.
   
   
2. Place the left foot piece in position on the fox’s body frame to make sure it’s oriented correctly.
   TIP: Refer back to your Design Space Canvas if you’re not sure of any pieces’ orientation.
   
   
3. Apply craft glue to the back of the foot piece, then place it back down into position on the body frame, making sure any slits align perfectly so the lantern pieces will slot in properly later.
   
   
4. Press down to adhere the foot piece to the body.
   
5. Repeat Steps 2-4 to adhere the right foot.
   
6. Apply craft glue to the back of the tail fur piece, then adhere it to the body frame, keeping the smooth edges of the fur flush with the edges of the frame’s tail.
   
   
7. Apply craft glue to the back of the chest piece, then adhere it to the body, aligning the piece’s bottom slit with the frame’s chest slit, and keeping the fur on its face flush with the frame’s edges.
   
   
8. Apply craft glue to the back of the mouth/nose piece, then adhere it so the nose is mostly adhered to the orange body frame and the mouth is on top of the white chest piece.
   
   
9. Apply craft glue to the back of the left ear’s black outer tip, then adhere it flush with the tip of the fox’s left ear.
   TIP: Refer to your Design Space Canvas if you need help positioning the ear piece correctly.
   
10. Repeat Step 9 for the right ear tip.
    
    
11. Apply craft glue to the back of the left inner ear fur piece, then adhere it in the center of the frame’s left ear.
    NOTE: Its top half should rest on top of the black ear tip piece, and its smooth, curved side should line up with the frame’s smooth curve.
    
12. Repeat Step 11 for the right inner ear fur piece.
    
    
13. To assemble the left eye, match up a white piece and a black piece to make sure they line up correctly, with the circular cutout of the eye facing the direction you want the fox to be looking.
    
    
14. Add craft glue to the back of the black piece, then adhere the black and white pieces of the left eye together.
    
    
15. Repeat Steps 13-14 for the right eye, making sure the circular cutout of the eye faces the same direction as the left.
    
16. Apply craft glue to the white side of the left eye and place it in position on the fox’s face, pressing down to adhere it.
    
17. Do the same to attach the right eye to the fox’s face and finish the body frame.
    
    
18. Take the two lantern frame pieces and slot them together, one inside the other.
    
    
19. Fold the two lantern frame pieces flat against each other, then slot them into the body frame.
    
    
20. Unfold the two oval-shaped lantern frame pieces, and stand the constructed frame upright.
    
21. Insert the solid top base piece’s six outer slits into the three frame pieces’ top slits.
    TIP: Curve the inner frames slightly if needed to fit them into the top base piece’s slits.
    
    
22. Insert the bottom base piece’s six outer slits into the three frame pieces’ bottom slits.
    NOTE: The bottom base is the one with a hole in the center, which allows access to the lights in the assembled lantern.
    
    
23. Take the first panel piece and fold back the top tab’s two wings along the vertical crease lines, then do the same for the bottom tab wings.
    
    
24. If using the vellum diffuser pieces, insert one onto the back of your folded panel, using the wings to hold it in place.
    
    
25. Repeat Steps 23-24 for the five remaining panels and diffusers (if using).
    NOTE: The pattern on the panel pieces will look the same no matter which way it faces, so you don’t need to worry about which end is the top or bottom.
    
    
26. With the front of the fox’s body frame facing you, insert a white front panel’s top and bottom tabs into the first section of the frame’s top and bottom base slots.
    
27. Unfold each tab’s wings to lock the panel in place.
    
    
28. Repeat Steps 26-27 to insert the other two white front panels.
    
    
29. Rotate the body frame so the back side is facing you, and insert two of the orange back panels, slotting in the tabs and locking them in place the same as you did for the white front panels.
    
    NOTE: We will insert the last orange panel after we put the lights inside.
    
30. Test your fairy lights to make sure they work. You may have to remove a battery protector tab first.
    NOTE: If you’re using a tea light, once you test it, you can go ahead and insert it, then skip to Step 34.
    
31. Remove any twist ties, and then unwind the lights.
    
32. Loosely wrap the lights’ wire around your fingers to make a coil to evenly distribute the lights.
    
    
33. Place the coil of lights and the battery pack inside the lantern.
    TIP: Position the battery pack so the power switch is easily accessible via the openings in the bottom of the lantern.
    
    
34. Insert the last orange back panel.
    
    
35. Your lantern is ready!
    

STEP 4: SHOW IT OFF

You now have an adorable Paper Fox Lantern to show off!

Just reach through the opening in the bottom of the lantern to turn on the lights and watch it glow!