3D Lighted Pumpkin Shadow Box for Halloween!

Instructions

STEP 1: GET MY PUMPKIN SHADOW BOX DESIGNS

First, download my Pumpkin Shadow Box designs from my file library. It's Design #634.

In the SVG folder, you’ll find score and no-score versions of my “Boo” and “Web” pumpkin shadow box designs to cut on a cutting machine. There is also a DXF folder with cut files, and a PDF folder with versions you can print and cut by hand.

Upload the SVG file you need to Design Space to get started. I’ll demonstrate with the score “Boo” shadow box design.

NOTE: If you want to use the no-score version, you can skip the steps related to adjusting and attaching the score lines.

TIP: If you’re not sure how to upload, go to jennifermaker.com/svgs to learn how to unzip and upload SVG files.

STEP 2: PREPARE YOUR PUMPKIN SHADOW BOX DESIGN

CRICUT DESIGN SPACE

1. Open Cricut Design Space and click “New Project.”
2. Click “Upload” and then “Upload Image.”
3. Click “Browse.”
4. Select the SVG file you need.
5. Click “Open.”
6. Click “Continue” and “Upload” to add it to your Canvas.
   NOTE: The top left piece is the front frame, the top right is the back frame, the four tabbed rectangles are the walls, the four circles are the design layers, and the pumpkin is the decorative front.
   
7. Click “Save” and give your project a name.
   NOTE: I don’t recommend resizing the design because the construction details will change if it’s made much larger or smaller.
8. Ungroup the design.
   
9. If you’re using a file WITHOUT score lines, the file is ready to cut.
10. If you’re using a file WITH score lines, find a group of two layers (indicated by an arrow in the Layers Panel) and click it to reveal both. Select the top layer with just lines.
    
11. Change it to “Score” in the Operation menu.
    
12. Click the group to select both layers, then click “Attach.”
    
13. Repeat steps 10-12 with the remaining two-layer groups.
    
14. Now you can cut and the Cricut will put the Score lines in the correct spots for creases!
    

CUTTING

1. Make sure the correct machine is selected in the top right.
2. Click “Make.”
3. On the Prepare screen, make sure the correct Material Size is selected for your materials.
   
4. Select the first mat again and click “Continue.”
5. On the Make screen, set the Material for your white mats to “Medium Cardstock - 80 lb (216 gsm).”
6. Change the Pressure to “More” for a cleaner cut.
   TIP: Check the “Remember Material Settings” box to save time between mats.
   
7. Place your first mat’s cardstock face up on a green StandardGrip machine mat.
8. Use a brayer to make sure it’s fully adhered.
   
9. Check that your Premium Fine-Point Blade is clean and in the clamp.
10. If you’re using the score version with the Scoring Stylus, insert it into the clamp now. If you’re using the Single Scoring Wheel, insert it into the clamp when prompted.
    
11. Press the flashing “Load/Unload” button to load the prepared mat into your Cricut.
12. Press the flashing “Go” button to begin cutting.
13. When it has finished cutting, don’t unload the mat right away. Carefully lift a corner of the cardstock to make sure the cuts went all the way through. If not, press the “Go” button again to make a second pass of cuts in the same spots.
    
14. Once the cuts are complete, unload the mat, flip it over onto your work surface, and roll it back to release the cardstock.
    TIP: Use the spatula to help lift delicate parts, and your weeding tool to poke out small bits of cardstock that may have been left behind. If you have any issues with your cuts, go to jennifermaker.com/cleaner-cuts.
    
15. Use a scraper tool to remove the small bits left on your mat after you remove the cut pieces.
16. Follow steps 7-15 to continue cutting the rest of your white cardstock mats.
17. If you’re cutting the front piece using glitter cardstock, select the “Glitter Cardstock” base material setting and choose “More” Pressure on that mat.
    
18. Place the glitter cardstock pretty side up on a green StandardGrip Machine mat. Follow steps 8-15 to cut the glitter cardstock.
19. Lay out all of the pieces face up. Refer to the Design Space screen if you’re not sure on the orientation of some pieces.
    
    

STEP 3: ASSEMBLE YOUR PUMPKIN SHADOW BOX

1. Find the plain white cardstock frame piece with tabs and a circle cutout and place it face up so there is a bottom vertical tab on the left.
   
2. With the piece face up, crease the bottom rectangle up along the crease line.
   
   TIP: Try to make the creases as straight as possible. Use the scraper tool to help.
3. Crease the side tab along its long crease line.
   
4. Find the tiny tabs (I’ll call them “wings”) on either side of the folded tab, and fold them down in the same direction.
   
5. Go around the circle folding all the rectangle tabs the same way.
6. Find a wall piece and hold it with the long edge of tabs facing up and the edge tab to the left.
7. Crease the wall’s tabs and their wing tabs (including the ones on the short edge) up along the creases.
   
8. Hold a second wall piece so the tabs face down and the solo tab is on the left.
9. Crease the tabs and wings the same way as the other wall piece.
   
10. Take the second wall piece you prepared and fold the short edge tab’s wings in to flatten the paper.
11. Slot the folded tab into the back frame’s bottom slot from the outside.
    
12. Unfold the wing tabs and press them down to keep the first tab in place.
    TIP: If you have trouble unfolding the wings, your weeding tool can help. Just gently poke the tip under the wing to pull it up, then smooth it down.
    
13. Feed the rest of the first wall’s tabs into the matching slots around the back frame until you reach the middle top of the frame, leaving a slot at the end of the strip.
    
14. Repeat the process with the other prepared wall piece starting from the other end of the frame’s base.
    NOTE: This time, the tabs are on the frame and the slot is on the wall, but the action is the same.
15. When the walls meet at the top of the frame, slot one end’s tabs into the other’s slot.
    
16. Work around the walls gently flattening the tabs’ wings to keep the cardstock secure.
17. Repeat the wall attachment process for the front of the frame using the same steps.
    
18. Stack your inner layers face up in order.
    
19. Hold the first layer face up, and fold one of the eight tabs back on the crease line where the tab meets the frame.
    TIP: Try to make the creases as straight as possible. Use the scraper tool to help.
20. Fold the next crease line on the same tab back.
21. Fold the last crease line on the tab back.
    TIP: Your tab should resemble a rolled triangle or square shape. Use your fingers to pinch it together so it stays rolled.
    
22. Repeat the steps with the other seven tabs on the layer.
23. Repeat the steps with the other three inner layer pieces.
    
24. Find the front accent piece. If you cut your pieces from the same materials as I did, this piece will be made from glitter cardstock.
25. Lay out your layer pieces face down on your work surface, all in the same orientation.
    
26. Try to put the front and back box pieces together to form the box. The piece with the small circle cutout is the back of the box, and the piece with the large circle cutout is the front.
    TIP: If you have trouble fitting the two pieces together, try smoothing down the tabs inside again, or adding small pieces of clear tape to hold them down.
    
27. Separate the front and back pieces.
    TIP: Don’t try to put your lights in now – those go in at the end.
28. Lay the back piece in front of you face down so you can access the open area where the layers will go.
29. Take the back solid layer and place it into the back box piece, with the spacers facing down.
    
    TIP: Use the weeding tool to gently push the layer and rolled tabs inside so they lay flat inside the back of the box.
30. Continue placing the layers inside the same way, with the moon piece next, the house piece after that, and the trees piece last.
    
    
    
31. When all of the inner layers are in place, add the front “lid” of the box. I found it easiest to slide it on starting with the bottom point.
    
    TIP: If the box resists closing all the way, use your weeding tool to reach in and adjust the supports or any areas that can be adjusted. Remove the lid piece and readjust your layers if problems persist.
32. Once the box is closing well, place the decorative front face-down nearby.
    NOTE: It’s easier to keep the layers in the correct alignment before the decorative frame is added.
33. Add craft glue to the front of the white frame piece.
    
34. Align the front piece face up so the flat bottom aligns with that of the shadow box and the inner curves of the front frame.
    
35. Gently press the frame piece down to adhere to the glue.
36. Carefully flip the shadow box over and gently press down, then let it dry face down to keep everything in place.
    
37. When the front is secure, unwind your LED fairy lights and make sure they work.
38. With the shadow box face-down, feed the lights into the small circle opening starting with the end opposite the battery pack. Rotate the shadow box as you go to help evenly distribute the lights.
    
    TIP: If you don’t like the way the fairy lights are distributed within the shadow box, gently pull them out and try again.
39. When you reach the end of the strand, stick a glue dot to the back of the battery pack, on the side without the screws.
    
40. Adhere the battery pack to the back of the shadow box so it’s hidden but you can still access the switch and screws to turn the lights on and off and to replace the battery.
    
    

STEP 4: SHOW IT OFF

Here is what my finished pumpkin shadow box looks like!