How To: DIY Hanging Fall Paper Lantern Decorations

Instructions

STEP 1: GET MY FREE 3D HANGING FALL PAPER LANTERN DESIGNS

First, download my Hanging Fall Paper Lantern designs from my free library – look for Design #642. Alternatively, you can use the Save This Project form near the top of this post and the design link will be emailed to you.

In the SVG folder, you’ll find “score” and “noscore” versions of my ghost, owl, and pumpkin lantern designs.

There is also a DXF folder with cut files and a PDF folder with versions you can print and cut by hand.

Upload the files you need to Design Space to get started.

TIP: If you’re not sure how to upload, go to jennifermaker.com/svgs to learn how to unzip and upload SVG files.

STEP 2: PREPARE YOUR 3D FALL HANGING PAPER LANTERN DESIGN

CRICUT DESIGN SPACE

1. In Cricut Design Space, open a blank Canvas.
2. Click “Upload,” then click “Upload Image.”
3. Click “Browse” and select the SVG file you want.
   NOTE: I’ll use the “score” version of the owl design.
4. Click “Open.”
5. Click “Continue” and finally click “Upload” to add the design to your Canvas.
   TIP: You can click the “Minus (-)” icon to zoom out and see everything.
   
6. Click "Save" to give your design a name and save it.
7. “Ungroup” the design.
8. The lantern has pieces for:
   Six Top Side Panels
   A long Top Piece with window cutouts
   Six rectangular Side Panels
   A thin Hanging Loop strip
   A small Top Base A with 14 slits
   A small Top Base B (more solid in the center)
   A larger Middle Base with a cutout in the center
   A larger Bottom Base (solid in the center)
   Plus 12 optional Diffuser Pieces that are the same shape as the top and side panel pieces.
9. The yellow pieces are the lantern’s main cardstock pieces and the orange pieces are optional diffuser layers you can cut from vellum. If you don’t want to use the diffuser pieces, delete the orange layers.
   
10. If you used the “score” version like me, the layers with arrows in the Layers Panel are groups that have score lines that need to be adjusted and attached.
11. At the top of the Layers Panel, click the first layer that has an arrow to expand it.
    NOTE: You’ll see a top layer with just lines and a second layer with yellow shapes.
12. Select just the top layer with lines.
    
    NOTE: The color box next to the “Operation” menu will turn red, which is the way I make my intended score layers easier to identify.
13. Click the “Operation” menu and select “Score.”
    
14. If you want to change the colors of any of the cardstock elements, select just the Cut layer in the Layers Panel and use the color box to pick a new color. It's easier to do this now before the layers are attached.
15. Click the layer with the arrow again to select both the Score layer and its Cut layer.
    
16. Click “Attach” to keep the “Score” and “Basic Cut” layers together.
    
17. Use Steps 11-16 to adjust and “Attach” the remaining 12 grouped lantern layers.
18. Your lantern is ready to cut!
    
    

CUTTING CARDSTOCK AND VELLUM

1. Select the correct machine from the top right drop-down menu.
2. Click “Make.”
3. On the Prepare screen, make sure the correct Material Size is selected for your materials.
   NOTE: Since we’re using cardstock and vellum, do not “Mirror” any mats. I changed the vellum mats to “8.5 in x 11 in” to match my material.
   
4. After you’ve prepared your mats, select the first mat again and click “Continue.”
5. On the Make screen, I used these Material Settings:
   Vellum - “Vellum” with “Default” Pressure on a blue LightGrip machine mat.
   
   80 lb cardstock - “Medium Cardstock - 80 lb (216 gsm)” with “More” Pressure on a green StandardGrip machine mat.
   
   100 lb cardstock - “Cardstock (for intricate cuts)” with “More” Pressure on a green StandardGrip machine mat.
   NOTE: This setting consistently gave me better results than the “Heavy Cardstock - 100 lb” setting.
6. Place your first mat’s material face up on the correct machine mat.
   NOTE: Mine is vellum, which is the same on both sides.
7. Use a brayer to make sure it’s fully adhered.
   
8. Check that your Premium Fine-Point Blade is clean and in the clamp.
9. Press the flashing “Load/Unload” button to load the prepared mat into your Cricut.
10. Press the flashing “Go” button to begin cutting.
11. When it has finished cutting, don’t unload the mat right away. Instead, gently lift a corner to make sure the material is cut all the way. If not, press the “Go” button again to make the same cuts in the same spots.
12. When the cuts are complete, unload the mat, flip it over onto your work surface, and roll it back to release the material.
    TIP: If you have any issues with your cuts, check out my Tips for Cleaner Cuts tutorial.
13. Set your pieces aside face up and oriented correctly to make assembly easier.
14. Continue cutting the rest of your diffuser mats if you’re making them.
15. When you get to the first cardstock mat, adjust the material settings as needed and use Steps 6-13 to cut the pieces.
    NOTE: If you’re using the “score” version like I am, follow the screen prompts to select and add your scoring tool. If you’re using the "noscore" dashed cut line version, you won’t see the Scoring Tool prompts since all of your lines are cuts.
    
16. Use a spatula to help lift delicate pieces off of the mat without tearing and a weeding tool to gently pop out any cutouts that stick to the design.
17. Use a scraper to remove any small cutouts that remain on the machine mat to avoid impacting the next cut.
18. Use the same steps to cut the remaining cardstock mats.
19. Here are what my cut lantern pieces and diffusers look like.
    
    

STEP 3: ASSEMBLE YOUR HANGING FALL PAPER LANTERN

1. Gently curl the thin rectangle for the Hanging Loop so it’s in a U-shape.
2. Slip each end of the Hanging Loop through each of the middle two slits in Top Base A from the top.
3. Flip Top Base A over and interlock the hanging loop’s slits to create a circle, then gently pinch the tabs to flatten them a bit.
   
   
4. Gently pull the loop from the top so the interlocked pieces are close to the underside of the base.
5. Place all of your cardstock lantern pieces face down, using the Cricut Design Space Canvas as a reference if needed.
   NOTE: If you’re using textured cardstock like me, the more textured side is the front.
   
6. Starting with the Top piece with window cutouts, fold up along all of the crease lines.
   TIP: Start with the long creases, which your scraper can help keep straight, then fold the smaller sections with your fingers to make the small tabs we’ll call wings.
   
7. Hold the Top face up by one of the end panels.
8. Fold the pointed tab’s wings to the back and hold them in place so the section is the same width as the outer slits in Top Base A.
   
   
9. Gently slot the tab and folded wings up through one of the outer slits in Top Base A.
   
10. Unfold the wings to lock the tab in place.
    
11. Use Steps 8-10 to work around the six sides, attaching all six panels to the outer slits in Top Base A.
12. If you want to make the pointed tabs less visible, gently fold them down and slide their pointed tops into the nearby slits in Top Base A.
    
    TIP: Gently pressing the base piece up in the middle can open the slit and make it easier to slide the tab in place.
    
13. Once all the top tabs are secure, fold the wings on the Top piece’s bottom tabs to the back.
14. Starting at one of the end panels, slot the Top’s bottom tab into an outer slit on Top Base B.
15. Unfold the wings to lock the first panel in place.
    
16. Use Steps 14-15 to secure the rest of the Top piece’s bottom tabs to Top Base B.
    
    TIP: It will get more difficult to slip the tabs through as you work around the panels, but you can gently reach through the window cutouts to move the tabs as needed.
17. Hold a small Top Side Panel face down and fold up along the creases.
18. Place an optional matching diffuser piece on the back of the Top Side Panel, if you’re using diffusers.
    NOTE: If you really want the diffuser panels to stay in place, you can add a few thin lines of glue to the cardstock border before pressing the diffuser in place.
    
    TIP: Fold the wings down at the top and bottom of the Top Side Panel after placing the diffuser to help keep it in place.
    
19. Repeat Steps 17-18 to prepare the other Top Side Panels.
20. With the top wings folded back and facing in, slot a Top Side Panel into one of the inner slits on the bottom of Top Base B.
    
21. Carefully reach in through the Top piece’s windows to unfold the wings and hold the Top Side Panel in place.
    TIP: Once the wings are flattened, the diffuser panel might slip around more easily, so fold its tab down while supporting the base from underneath to help it stay in place. Tweezers can help you manipulate the cardstock!
    
22. Hold the Top Side Panel’s folded bottom wings, and then slot the bottom tab through a slit in the face-up Middle Base (the one with a hexagon cutout in its center). Unfold the wings to keep the tab in place.
    
23. Repeat Steps 20-22 to secure the other five Top Side Panels to Top Base B and the Middle Base.
    TIP: Once the Top Side Panels are all secure, make sure they’re evenly spaced so the seams are consistent.
24. Place a rectangular Side Panel face down and fold up along the crease lines.
25. Add a matching optional diffuser piece on the back if you’re using it, holding it down with the tabs’ wings.
    TIP: You can also add thin lines of craft glue around the edges on the back of the cardstock panel, and on the large inner elements, to secure the diffuser in place permanently.
    
26. Repeat Steps 24-25 to prepare the other Side Panels.
27. Holding the Side Panel’s top wings down with them facing the inside, carefully slot the top tab into one of the slits in the bottom of the Middle Base, behind the Top Side Panel tab already in place.
    TIP: Turn the lantern upside down so you can see what you’re doing better on the inside of the lantern. Feeding one wing section through and then the other is often easier than trying to feed the entire tab through at once.
    
28. Unfold the top tab’s wings inside the lantern to keep it in place.
    NOTE: If you’re using diffusers, gently crease the tab area down to keep it in place.
29. Use Steps 27-28 to add the rest of the Side Panel tops to the Middle Base.
    TIP: The panels will flop down as you add more, so try to keep them out of the way using your arms.
    
30. Hold the Bottom Base face down and note the slit with a small hole at one end, which we’ll use to add the lights after securing most of the side panels.
    
31. With a Side Panel’s bottom tab wings folded to the back and holding the diffuser in place, slot the tab into the Bottom Base slit next to the one with a circle.
    
32. Unfold the wings and crease the diffuser tab under the Bottom Base to lock the piece in place.
33. Use Steps 31-32 to secure the next four Side Panels to the Bottom Base, leaving the last one unattached if you want to add lights.
    

OPTIONAL: CLEAN UP THE BASES WITH GLUE

1. If you don’t want the tabs to show under the Top Base and Middle Base, add thin lines of glue to the tab’s top.
   
2. Press the tab up to the glue and hold it in place to set.
   
3. If you used diffuser panels, you can also glue those tab layers up to make them less visible.
4. Continue around the lantern’s sides, gluing the tabs to make them flush with the bases.

STEP 4: ADD FAIRY LIGHTS TO YOUR FALL LANTERN

1. Unroll the strand of fairy lights and remove the battery protector tab. Then turn them on to make sure they work.
2. Wrap the strand around your hand to make them into a loop smaller than the lantern, then lightly pull the ends to make a tube about the lantern’s height.
   
3. Feed the strand’s loose end up through the lantern’s Bottom Base using the circle in the remaining slit.
   TIP: Reach through the lantern’s open panel to help pull the lights through without straightening them completely so they keep some of the tube shape.
   
4. Use a few Zots (glue dots) to adhere the battery pack’s smooth side to the underside of the lantern’s base. Press from both sides to make sure it adheres.
   NOTE: Keep the side with the screws facing out so you can change the battery as needed. Also make sure the switch is accessible.
   
5. Once the pack is secure, feed any remaining light wire through the circle into the lantern so it won’t hang down.
6. Reach through the open panel to spread the lights out. Try to get some up into the top for consistent illumination.
   
7. Insert the final panel’s bottom tab into the open slit and unfold the wings to lock it in place.
   

STEP 5: SHOW IT OFF

Here is what my finished Hanging Fall Paper Lantern looks like! Hang the finished lantern from a hook or display it on a flat surface.