Make a Paper Witch Lantern & Light Up Your Halloween!

Instructions

STEP 1: GET MY FREE PAPER WITCH LANTERN DESIGNS

First, download my paper Witch Lantern files from my free library – look for Design #766. Alternatively, you can use the Save This Project form near the top of this post and the design link will be emailed to you.

In the SVG folder, you’ll find “score” and “no-score” versions of my paper witch lantern design. I made some parts of these designs with the help of AI and used image editing software to polish them up.

The “score” version requires a Scoring Stylus or Single Scoring Wheel to create smooth lines for folding and alignment. If you don’t have a scoring tool, or if you prefer dashed cut lines, you can use the “no-score” version instead.

There is also a DXF folder with cut files, and a PDF folder with versions you can print and cut by hand.

TIP: If you’re not sure how to upload, go to jennifermaker.com/svgs to learn how to unzip and upload SVG files.

STEP 2: PREPARE AND CUT YOUR WITCH LANTERN DESIGN

CRICUT DESIGN SPACE

1. In Cricut Design Space, open a blank Canvas. NOTE: If you’re new to using Cricut Design Space, go to cricutkickoff.com for my introductory tutorial on Design Space basics.
2. Click “Upload” and then “Upload Image.”
3. Click “Browse” and select the lantern SVG file you want to use. NOTE: I’ll demonstrate with the “score” version of the file.
4. Click “Open,” and then “Continue.”
5. Click “Upload” to add the design to your Canvas. TIP: You can click the minus (-) icon in the lower left corner to zoom out and see everything on your canvas.
6. Click “Save” and give your project a name so you can find it easily.
7. “Ungroup” the design to work with the elements separately. You can drag them apart to see everything as needed. NOTE: On your Canvas, you'll have two black frame pieces, two black circular base pieces, three black cauldron panels, three black skeleton panels, as well as six optional gray diffuser panels. For the witch, you’ll have one black frame piece, one green hat, one orange cat, and two white ghosts. There are also 11 yellow sunflower petal pieces, and 11 brown sunflower center pieces.
8. If you don’t want to cut the diffuser pieces, drag the decorative panels away to expose the gray diffuser layers. Select the diffuser pieces and click the “Trash” icon to delete them.
9. If you don’t want to cut the hat, cat, ghost, or sunflower decorative elements, “Ungroup” the witch and accessories, then delete any pieces you don’t want. NOTE: The main frame design still includes the hat, cat, and ghosts, but there are no visible placeholders for the sunflowers.
10. If you’d like to have hat, cat, ghost, and sunflower pieces on the back of your lantern as well, hold down the “Shift” key on your keyboard and click each of the detail pieces (including the sunflower groups) in the Layers Panel to select them all at the same time.
11. Click the “Duplicate” icon to create a copy of all the pieces, then move them to the side.
12. Then, with the duplicated elements still selected, click “Flip” and “Flip Horizontal” so the pieces will match the orientation correctly on the back side of the witch frame piece.
13. To change the color of a piece to match the cardstock you’ll cut it from, select the piece in the Layers Panel, click the Color Box next to “Operation,” and choose a new option. NOTE: If the piece is in a grouped layer, click the small arrow to expand the group and then select the single piece you want to change.
14. Next, scroll down in the Layers Panel to find six groups of panel pieces, each indicated by a small arrow. NOTE: We need to adjust these groups to make sure the score lines are made on the panel tabs correctly.
15. In the Layers Panel, click the arrow to expand the first panel group.
16. Select the top layer with the solid lines and change its “Operation” to “Score” so the Cricut knows to make the crease lines where your panel tabs will be folded. NOTE: The score lines for this project are all red, which is reflected in the Color Box when selecting a line layer. NOTE: If you’re making the “no-score” version, your crease lines are already dashed line cuts and don’t need to be changed to “Score,” so you can skip this step.
17. Click the group layer with the arrow to select both layers in this group, then click “Attach” to keep your crease lines with your cut shape.
18. Repeat Steps 15-17 for the five remaining groups of panels, changing the lines to “Score” and Attaching them to their cut shapes.
19. Your project is ready to cut!

CUTTING

1. Make sure the correct machine is selected in the top right.
2. Click “Make.”
3. On the Prepare screen, make sure the correct Material Size is selected for your materials. NOTE: I’m using “12 in x 12 in” for all my mats. NOTE: If you see a mat with just lines, one or more of your score layers may not have attached correctly, so click on “Cancel” to return to the Canvas to check and adjust as needed.
4. Once you are satisfied with your mat layouts, select the mat with your witch frame so it loads first on the next screen and click “Continue.”
5. On the Make screen, set the Base Material for your mat. NOTE: I’m using 80 lb. cardstock for my frames, so I’ll use the “Medium Cardstock - 80 lb (216 gsm)” setting with “More” pressure. 65 lb. cardstock also cuts well at this setting, so I’ll use it for my cat and sunflower mats, too.
6. Place the material face up on a green StandardGrip machine mat.
7. Use a brayer to make sure it’s fully adhered.
8. Check that your Premium Fine-Point Blade is clean and in the clamp.
9. Press the flashing “Load/Unload” button to load the prepared mat into your Cricut.
10. Press the flashing middle button to begin cutting.
11. When it has finished cutting, don’t unload the mat right away. Gently lift a corner of the material to make sure the cuts went all the way through. If not, press the middle button again to make a second pass of cuts in the same spots.
12. When the cuts are complete, unload the mat, flip it over onto your work surface, and roll it back to release the cardstock.
13. Use the spatula to help lift delicate parts, and your weeding tool to poke out small bits of cardstock that may have been left behind. If you have any issues with your cuts, check out my Tips for Cleaner Cuts tutorial.
14. Use a scraper tool to remove the small bits left on your mat after you remove the cut pieces.
15. If your mat has score lines, follow the screen prompts to select and add your scoring tool. Depending on your machine, click “Edit Tools” and select the Scoring Stylus to load both the scoring tool and the blade at the same time. Or, you can select the Scoring Wheel and switch tools when prompted. Click “Apply” to close the “Edit Tools” window. NOTE: If you’re using the “no-score” version, you won’t see the Scoring Tool prompts since all of your creases are dashed cuts.
16. Then repeat Steps 6-14 to cut and score your mats that have score lines.
17. For glitter cardstock mats, I used the “Glitter Cardstock” material setting with “More” pressure for cleaner cuts. NOTE: I used glitter cardstock for my ghost and hat mats.
18. Place the cardstock face up on a green StandardGrip machine mat.
19. Use a brayer to make sure it’s fully adhered.
20. Then repeat Steps 8-14 to cut your glitter cardstock mats. NOTE: Glitter can stick to the blade and cause trouble on your future cuts, so I recommend cleaning it after each sheet of glitter cardstock. You can take the housing and blade out of the clamp, press down on the plunger, and carefully poke the blade into a ball of aluminum foil several times, or clean it with an alcohol wipe. Be careful, it's sharp!
21. For the (optional) lantern diffusers, set your material to the “Vellum” setting with “More” pressure.
22. Place the vellum face up on a blue LightGrip machine mat. TIP: You can also use a less sticky green StandardGrip machine mat.
23. Use a brayer to make sure it’s fully adhered.
24. Repeat Steps 8-14 to cut and unload your vellum diffuser pieces.
25. Lay out all of the pieces face up in organized piles. You should have: - For the lantern base: one witch main frame piece with a vertical slit at the bottom of the arch, one frame piece with slits at the top and bottom of the arch, one frame piece with a slit at the top of the arch, two circular base pieces, six decorative panels, and six diffuser panels (if you cut them). - For the decorative elements: two cats, two hats, and four ghosts. - For the flowers: eight small petal pieces, eight small center pieces, six medium petal pieces, six medium center pieces, six large petal pieces, six large center pieces, two extra-large petal pieces, and two extra-large center pieces. TIP: Refer to the Design Space screen if you’re not sure about some pieces’ orientation.

STEP 3: ASSEMBLE YOUR PAPER WITCH LANTERN

ASSEMBLE THE WITCH FRAME AND ACCESSORIES

1. Start with the witch frame piece face-up (with the witch’s face pointing to the left) on your work surface.
2. Place a left ghost (with the bigger mouth) and a right ghost (with the smaller mouth) face up onto their spots on the front of the frame to make sure they align correctly.
3. Flip the left ghost piece face-down and apply lines of glue all over its back, avoiding the eye and mouth cutouts.
4. Then flip it over again and place it onto its spot on the witch frame, aligning the edges carefully.
5. Press and smooth to adhere the left ghost to the witch frame.
6. Gently wipe away any excess glue with a paper towel or your finger.
7. Repeat Steps 3-6 to adhere the right ghost to the witch frame.
8. Then repeat Steps 2-6 to adhere the hat and the cat face-up in their proper positions on the front of the frame.
9. Next, flip an extra-large sunflower center piece face-down and add a small dot of glue to the back. TIP: Use a pair of tweezers to help assemble the flower pieces!
10. Then flip it face-up and place it in the center of an extra-large sunflower petal piece.
11. Press and hold to adhere the center to the petals.
12. Repeat Steps 9-11 to assemble the remaining sunflowers, making sure to match the sizes correctly.
13. Take an extra-large sunflower and add a small dot of glue to its back, then adhere it to the witch’s hat. TIP: Refer back to your Design Space screen if you’re unsure of where to place each flower.
14. Set aside the sunflower piece for the back of the hat for now.
15. Repeat Steps 13-14 to adhere the three large sunflowers face-up on the front of the witch frame piece.
16. Adhere the three medium sunflowers to the frame’s front the same way.
17. Then adhere the four small sunflowers to the frame’s front the same way, as well.
18. Allow a few minutes for the glue to dry and the pieces to set, then flip the witch frame piece face-down.
19. Repeat Steps 2-17 to add the decorative elements and flowers to the back of the witch frame. Remember, everything will be facing the opposite direction on the back side.

ASSEMBLE YOUR LANTERN BASE

1. Take the lantern frame piece with a slit at the top of the arch and slot it inside the frame piece with slits at the top and bottom of the arch.
2. Lay the two frame pieces flat against each other, then slot them into the main witch frame piece.
3. Spread out the frame pieces, and stand the constructed frame upright.
4. Insert the solid top base piece’s six outer slits into the three frame pieces’ top slits. TIP: Curve the inner frames slightly if needed to fit them into the top base piece’s slits.
5. Insert the bottom base piece’s six outer slits into the three frame pieces’ bottom slits. NOTE: The bottom base has a hole in the center for access to the lights in the assembled lantern.
6. Take the first panel piece and fold back the top and bottom horizontal crease lines.
7. Then fold back the top tab’s two wings along the vertical crease lines, and do the same for the bottom tab wings. NOTE: Make sure your panel’s design is facing the correct direction when you fold the tabs back.
8. If using the vellum diffuser pieces, insert one onto the back of your folded panel, using the wings to hold it in place.
9. Repeat Steps 6-8 for the five remaining panels and diffusers (if using them).
10. Insert a panel’s top and bottom tabs into the first section of the frame’s top and bottom base slots.
11. After each tab is inserted, unfold the tab’s wings to lock the panel in place.
12. Repeat Steps 10-11 to insert the next four panels. TIP: I like to alternate the panel patterns around the lantern base. NOTE: We will insert the last panel after we put the lights inside.
13. Test your lights to make sure they work, including any remotes depending on your light source. You may have to remove a battery protector tab first.
14. If you’re using an LED tea light or puck light, place it in the bottom of the lantern base.
15. If you’re using fairy lights, remove any twist ties, and then unwind the lights.
16. Loosely wrap the wire around your fingers to make a coil to evenly distribute the lights.
17. Place the coil of lights and the battery pack inside the lantern. TIP: Position the battery pack so the power switch is easily accessible via the openings in the bottom of the lantern. OR, to keep the battery pack accessible without having to reach inside the lantern, slide the battery pack through a bottom hole and keep it hidden behind the lantern.
18. Once your lights are inserted, follow Steps 10-11 to slot in the final panel.
19. Your witch lantern is ready for display!

STEP 4: SHOW IT OFF

You now have a fun paper witch lantern you can display for spooky Halloween lighting!