Craft A Bridgerton-Inspired Teapot Lantern: The Diamond of the Season!

Instructions

STEP 1: GET MY FREE TEAPOT LANTERN DESIGNS

First, download my Teapot Lantern files from my free library – look for Design #800. Alternatively, you can use the Save This Project form near the top of this post and the design link will be emailed to you.

In the SVG folder, you’ll find “score” and “no-score” versions of my teapot lantern design. The “score” version requires a Scoring Stylus or Single Scoring Wheel to create smooth lines for folding and alignment. If you don’t have a scoring tool, or if you prefer dashed cut lines, you can use the “no-score” version instead.

There is also a DXF folder with cut files, and a PDF folder with versions you can print and cut by hand.

TIP: If you’re not sure how to upload, go to jennifermaker.com/svgs to learn how to unzip and upload SVG files.

STEP 2: PREPARE AND CUT YOUR TEAPOT LANTERN DESIGN

CRICUT DESIGN SPACE

1. In Cricut Design Space, open a blank Canvas.
   NOTE: If you’re new to using Cricut Design Space, go to cricutkickoff.com for my introductory tutorial on Design Space basics.
2. Click “Upload” and then “Upload Image.”
3. Click “Browse” and select the lantern SVG file you want to use.
   NOTE: I’ll demonstrate with the “no-score” version of the file. If you’re cutting the “score” version, follow the steps from my scoring tool tutorial to adjust your file.
4. Click “Open,” and then “Continue.”
5. Click “Upload” to add the design to your Canvas.
   TIP: You can click the minus (-) icon in the lower left corner to zoom out and see everything on your canvas.
   
   
6. Click “Save” and give your project a name so you can find it easily.
7. “Ungroup” the design to work with the elements separately. You can drag them apart to see everything as needed.
   NOTE: On your Canvas, you'll have three white frame pieces (one in the shape of a teapot), two white circular base pieces, six white panels for the lantern base, and six optional gray diffuser panels. The teapot frame also has gold decorative pieces for its lid, handle, and spout, which we’ll cut from permanent vinyl.
   
   
8. If you don’t want to cut the diffuser pieces, drag the decorative panels away to expose the gray diffuser layers. Select the diffuser pieces and click the “Trash” icon to delete them.
   
   NOTE: I’ll keep my diffuser pieces.
9. If you’d like your lantern to have decorations on the back of the teapot as well, hold down the “Shift” key on your keyboard and click each of the three gold detail pieces at the top of the Layers Panel to select them all at the same time.
10. Click the “Duplicate” icon to create a copy of all three pieces, then move them to the side.
    
    
11. Then, with the duplicated elements still selected, click “Flip” and “Flip Horizontal” so the pieces will match the orientation correctly on the back side of the teapot frame piece.
    NOTE: You may have a “Flip Horizontal” icon on your toolbar.
    
    
12. To change the color of a piece to match the cardstock you’ll cut it from, select the piece in the Layers Panel, click the Color Box next to “Operation,” and choose a new option.
    NOTE: If the piece is in a grouped layer, click the small arrow to expand the group and then select the single piece you want to change.
13. If you’re cutting the “no-score” version of the lantern, your project is ready to cut!
    
    

CUTTING

1. Make sure the correct machine is selected in the top right.
2. Click “Make.”
3. On the Prepare screen, make sure the correct Material Size is selected for your materials.
   NOTE: I’m using “12 in x 12 in” for all my mats.
   
   NOTE: For the "score" file, a mat that shows only lines means a score layer isn’t attached. Click "Cancel" to return to the Canvas and reattach the layers if needed.
4. Select the mat with your decorative vinyl pieces and drag the objects apart so you have room to trim them into separate decals.
   NOTE: If you’re only decorating one side, you’ll have three designs instead of six.
   
   
5. Once you are satisfied with your mat layouts, select the first mat again and click “Continue.”
   NOTE: Your first mat may be different than mine if you have changed some colors.
6. On the Make screen, set the Base Material for your first mat.
   NOTE: I'll cut my lantern pieces first, and I'll use 80 lb. cream cardstock. I used the “Medium Cardstock - 80 lb (216 gsm)” material setting with “More” pressure for cleaner cuts.
   
   
7. Check that the correct tool (or tools) is listed.
   NOTE: If your mat has score lines, follow the screen prompts to select and add your scoring tool. Click “Edit Tools” and select the Scoring Stylus to load both the scoring tool and the blade at the same time. Or you can select the Scoring Wheel and switch tools when prompted. Click “Apply” to close the “Edit Tools” window.
   TIP: If you’re using the “no-score” version, you won’t see the Scoring Tool prompts since the dashed lines are cuts.
8. Place the cardstock face up on a green StandardGrip machine mat.
   
   
9. Use a brayer to make sure it’s fully adhered.
10. Check that your Premium Fine-Point Blade is clean and in the clamp, and that your Scoring Stylus is loaded if needed.
11. Press the flashing “Load/Unload” button to load the prepared mat into your Cricut.
12. Press the flashing middle button to begin cutting.
13. When it has finished cutting, don’t unload the mat right away. Gently lift a corner of the material to make sure the cuts went all the way through. If not, press the middle button again to make a second pass of cuts in the same spots.
14. When the cuts are complete, unload the mat, flip it over onto your work surface, and roll it back to release the cardstock.
15. Use the spatula to help lift delicate parts, and your weeding tool to poke out small bits of cardstock that may have been left behind. If you have any issues with your cuts, go to jennifermaker.com/cleaner-cuts.
    
    
16. Use a scraper tool to remove the small bits left on your mat after you remove the cut pieces.
17. For the optional lantern diffusers, I used the “Vellum” setting with “More” pressure.
    
    
18. Place the vellum face up on a less sticky green StandardGrip machine mat.
    TIP: You can also use a blue LightGrip machine mat.
    
    
19. Use a brayer to make sure it’s fully adhered.
20. Repeat Steps 10-16 to cut and unload your vellum diffuser pieces.
21. For the mat with the decorative lid, handle, and spout pieces, I used the “Value Vinyl” material setting with “More” pressure for my gold Cricut Value vinyl.
    NOTE: I don’t recommend cutting your decals from glitter or metallic vinyl since using StrongGrip transfer tape to apply them can damage the cardstock.
    
    
22. Use a paper trimmer or scissors to trim your vinyl to cover the design area shown on the screen, plus an inch or so of buffer.
    TIP: You can save smaller pieces of vinyl for other projects.
23. Place your vinyl pretty side up on a green StandardGrip machine mat so it covers the design area on your screen.
    
    
24. Use a brayer to make sure it’s fully adhered.
25. Repeat Steps 10-13 to cut your vinyl pieces.
26. When the cuts are complete, unload the mat but leave the vinyl in place.
27. Use your weeding tool to remove the larger pieces of vinyl, trimming with scissors as you go to prevent the vinyl from sticking to your decal.
    
    
28. Use your weeding tool to remove smaller sections inside the cut pieces.
    
    
29. Cut the six vinyl designs apart into individual decals. Don’t separate any elements that are part of a design!
30. Lay out all of the pieces face up in organized piles. You should have:
    For the teapot: One teapot main frame piece, two vinyl lid decals, two vinyl handle decals, and two vinyl spout decals.
    For the lantern base: One frame piece with two slits at the top, one frame piece with a single slit at the top, two circular base pieces, six decorative panels, and six diffuser panels (if you cut them).
    TIP: Refer to the Design Space screen if you’re not sure about some pieces’ orientation.
    
    

STEP 3: ASSEMBLE YOUR TEAPOT LANTERN

ADD VINYL TO THE MAIN TEAPOT FRAME

1. Lay the teapot main frame piece face up in your work area.
2. Place the first set of lid, handle, and spout decals, vinyl side up, on the teapot to make sure they’re oriented correctly. Set aside the second set of decals for now.
   NOTE: You’ll only have one set if you’re decorating just one side.
   
   
3. Move the vinyl decals off the teapot, but keep their direction the same.
4. Cut a piece of StandardGrip transfer tape large enough to cover each of the individual decals.
   
   
5. Remove the backing from the transfer tape, then pat your fingers on its adhesive side to lessen its stickiness and prevent damage to your cardstock.
   TIP: You can also stick the transfer tape to a cloth or your clothing and peel it back up several times to lessen the stickiness.
6. Hold your transfer tape in the shape of a “taco,” sticky side down, then center the bottom of the “taco” onto the middle of the lid decal.
   
   
7. Smooth the transfer tape over the decal from the center outward and burnish it down using the scraper tool.
   
   
8. Flip your vinyl over and burnish the other side, then gently peel away the vinyl’s carrier sheet.
   TIP: If any pieces of the decal cling to the carrier sheet instead of transferring to the tape, lay the sheet back down, burnish the area with your scraper, and carefully try again.
9. Hold your transfer tape sticky side down.
10. Position the decal over the lid area. The small top piece should fit the widest part of the lid’s knob. Gently lower it onto the cardstock.
    
    TIP: Don’t press down on the decal until it’s positioned just where you want it. You can lift and reposition parts that aren’t aligned properly as long as they haven’t been pressed down yet.
11. Once the decal is in place, use a scraper to burnish down just the areas where the vinyl touches the cardstock, starting in the center of the design and working your way out.
12. Starting in a corner, slowly and carefully peel the transfer tape away from the lid piece, burnishing down any vinyl that lifts from the surface as you go.
    TIP: It can be helpful to pull your transfer tape parallel to the cardstock while peeling it away.
    TIP: If the cardstock starts to rip, try peeling the transfer tape from a different direction.
    
    
13. Using the same piece of transfer tape, repeat Steps 6-12 to apply the handle and spout decals to their corresponding areas.
    
    
    
14. Flip over the teapot main frame piece so the spout and handle are on opposite sides.
15. Repeat Steps 6-13 to apply the second set of decals to the back of the teapot.
    
    

ASSEMBLE YOUR LANTERN

1. Take the lantern frame piece with a single slit at the top and slot it inside the frame piece with two slits at the top.
   
   
2. Lay the two frame pieces flat against each other, then slot them into the teapot-shaped frame piece.
   
   
3. Spread out the frame pieces, and stand the constructed frame upright.
4. Insert the solid circular top base piece’s six outer slits into the three frame pieces’ top slits.
   TIP: Curve the inner frames slightly if needed to fit them into the top base piece’s slits.
   
   
5. Insert the circular bottom base piece’s six outer slits into the three frame pieces’ bottom slits.
   NOTE: The bottom base has a hole in the center for access to the lights in the assembled lantern.
   
   
6. Take the first panel piece and fold back along the top and bottom horizontal score or dashed cut lines.
7. Fold back the top tab’s two wings along the vertical score or dashed cut lines, then do the same for the bottom tab wings.
   NOTE: Make sure your panel’s design is facing the correct direction when you fold the tabs back. Refer back to your Design Space screen if needed.
   
   
8. If using the vellum diffuser pieces, insert one onto the back of your folded panel, using the wings to hold it in place.
   
   
9. Repeat Steps 6-8 for the five remaining panels and diffusers.
   
   
10. Insert a panel’s top and bottom tabs into the first section of the frame’s top and bottom base slots.
    TIP: Pinch the wings and the tip of the panel when inserting it into the slot to make sure the vellum goes through the slot, as well.
    
    
11. After each tab is inserted, unfold the tab’s wings to lock the panel in place.
    
    
12. Repeat Steps 10-11 to insert the next four panels.
    TIP: I like to alternate the two different panel designs around the lantern base.
    NOTE: We will insert the last panel after we put the lights inside.
    
    
13. Test your lights to make sure they work, including any remotes. You may have to remove a battery protector tab first.
14. If you’re using an LED tea light or puck light, place it in the bottom of the lantern base.
    
    
15. If you’re using fairy lights, remove any twist ties, and then unwind the lights.
16. Loosely wrap the wire around your fingers to make a coil to evenly distribute the lights.
    
    
17. Place the coil of lights and the battery pack inside the lantern.
    TIP: Position the battery pack so the power switch is easily accessible via the openings in the bottom of the lantern. OR, to keep the battery pack accessible without having to reach inside the lantern, slide the battery pack through a bottom opening and keep it hidden behind the lantern while on display.
    
    
18. Once your lights are inserted, follow Steps 10-11 to slot in the final panel.
    
    
19. Your teapot lantern is ready for display!
    

STEP 4: SHOW IT OFF

You now have a beautiful teapot lantern for your next Bridgerton watch party! To add an elegant finishing touch, attach mini crepe paper peonies or mini cardstock roses!