Layered Garden Lantern: DIY Tiered Lighting for Spring!

Instructions

STEP 1: GET MY FREE LAYERED GARDEN LANTERN DESIGNS

First, download my free layered garden lantern design from my free library – look for Design #738. Alternatively, you can use the Save This Project form near the top of this post and the design link will be emailed to you..
TIP: If you’re not sure how to upload, goto jennifermaker.com/svgs to learn how to unzip and upload SVG files.
Inside the SVG folder, you’ll see two versions of the design depending on the method you want to use to make the base’s placement guides. If you want to use a scoring tool or Cricut pen, use the “score” file. If you want to use dashed cut lines without a score tool, use the “no-score” file. I’ll cover when to use which method.
For this tutorial, I’ll show you how to make the version with score lines using a Fine-Point Blade, a Cricut Scoring Stylus, and a Cricut Pen, all with my Cricut Maker 4.

STEP 2: PREPARE AND CUT YOUR LAYERED GARDEN LANTERN DESIGN

CRICUT DESIGN SPACE

1. In Cricut Design Space on a blank Canvas, click “Upload.”
2. Click “Upload Image.”
3. Click “Browse.”
4. Find and select the SVG of your choice from the main SVG folder.
   NOTE: I’ll demonstrate with the “score” version of the layered garden lantern design.
   
5. Click “Open” and then “Continue.”
6. Click “Upload” to add the design to your Canvas.
   
   
7. Click “Save” and give your project a name.
8. “Ungroup” the design.
9. Drag the layers of the design apart so you can see them all.
   
   
10. To create the guidelines on the base layer, click the arrow next to the base in the Layers Panel to expand the group.
    TIP: I’ll demonstrate by using the “score” version of the lantern design with a Cricut Pen. You can also use the “score” version of the design with a Scoring Stylus or Single Scoring Wheel. If you don’t have a scoring tool or Cricut Pen, use the no-score version of the file to create the guidelines.
    
11. If you’re using the no-score version of the design, skip to step 14. If you’re using the score version of the design, select the layer that looks like three concentric circles, then click the Operation drop-down menu. If you’ll use a scoring tool, select “Score.” If you’ll use a Cricut pen, select “Pen.”
    
    
    
12. Click the square next to the menu, and select a color and size for your pen. Pick a color that will be subtle but visible on your lantern’s color. I used a 0.4 millimeter pen in the color "Candy Corn."
    
    
    
13. Hold your “Shift” key on your keyboard, then select the new score or draw layer and the base’s solid circle layer, and click “Attach.”
    
    
    
14. If you want to use different color cardstock for the pieces, select the appropriate layer in the Layers Panel and use the Color Box at the top to adjust it.
15. Your lantern is ready to cut! Click “Make.”
16. If prompted, click "On Mat," choose your mat size, and click “Confirm.”
    On the Prepare screen, make sure the correct Material Size is selected for each of your materials.
    
    
17. Select the first mat again and click “Continue.”
    

CUTTING

1. On the Make screen, I used the “Medium Cardstock - 80 lb (216 gsm)” setting with “More” Pressure for my white 65 lb. cardstock.
   
   TIP: Check the “Remember material settings” box to save time between cuts.
   
2. Place your first mat’s material pretty-side up onto a green StandardGrip machine mat.
   
   
   
3. Use a brayer to make sure it’s fully adhered.
4. Check that your Fine-Point Blade is clean and in the clamp.
5. Load your mat into your Cricut and press the flashing middle button to begin cutting.
6. Before unloading the mat, use your weeding tool to peel back a corner of the material to make sure the cut went all the way through. If it didn’t, smooth the material back down into place and press the middle button again for another pass.
7. Once the material is cut all the way through, unload the mat, flip it over onto your work surface, and roll it back to release the material.
   NOTE: If you have any issues with your cuts, check out my Intricate Cuts tutorial.
   
8. Use a spatula to carefully remove delicate areas.
   
   TIP: If any stubborn cardstock pieces stay attached to the cut pieces, use a weeding tool to carefully poke them out.
   
9. Place the cut pieces face up on your work surface. Use your Canvas in Cricut Design Space as reference if needed.
   
   TIP: Use a scraper tool to push the remaining cardstock pieces off of your machine mat.
   
10. If you’re using the “score” file and marking the base’s placement guidelines with a scoring tool, the Single Scoring Wheel will be selected by default. If you’re using one, follow the prompts to insert it into the correct clamp when your Cricut is ready. If you’re using a Scoring Stylus, click “Edit Tools,” select it, then insert your Scoring Stylus into the correct clamp now.
    
    
    
    
11. Or, if you’re drawing the guidelines with a Cricut Pen, test your chosen pen on scrap paper, put the cap on the back, and insert it into the correct clamp now.
12. Follow steps 2-11 to continue cutting the rest of your mats.
    

STEP 3: ASSEMBLE YOUR LAYERED GARDEN LANTERN

1. The inner layer (with dragonflies and butterflies) is only one piece. Turn it face down, then apply a line of glue vertically along one end of the layer’s side tab.
   
   
   
2. Curve the piece into a ring or cylinder shape so the tab overlaps with the other end about 0.25”. Keep the semicircle notch along the bottom clear. Hold the glued section until it sets.
   
   
   NOTE: The cut details at the top may not curve along with the shape of the bottom yet – don’t worry, we’ll shape them later.
   
3. Find the two pieces for the middle layer (with large roses, grass, and leaves) and make sure they’re face up on your work surface.
   
   
   
4. One piece has a tab on one end. Apply a line of glue to the front of the tab.
   
   
   
5. Overlap the glued tab with the piece’s other end about 0.25”. Be sure the bottom edges align, then press the ends together. The glued joint needs to be really dry to avoid popping open when you glue it into a ring, so let it sit for a few minutes.
   
   
   
6. Repeat steps 3-5 to attach the two pieces for the outer layer (the layers with the small roses and grass) and let them dry completely.
7. Turn the assembled middle and outer layers face down.
8. Apply a line of glue vertically along one end of the middle layer.
   
   
   
9. Attach the glued end to the other end to form a ring or cylinder shape. Overlap the ends by about 0.25”. Be sure to keep the semicircle-shaped notch along the bottom clear.
   
   
   
10. Repeat steps 8-9 for the outer layer.
    
    
    
11. Use your fingers to gently curve the cutouts along the tops of each layer so they follow the curved shape of the lantern.
    
    
    
12. Fold the bottom tabs on each layer inward toward the center of each cylinder, making sure the folds are flush with the bottom of the pieces.
    
    
    
13. On the circular base piece, use the three scored (or dashed or drawn) circles as guides for the approximate placement of each layer.
    
    
    
14. Each layer has a small notch cutout at the bottom for feeding the lights through. It’s best to position these so they’re close to each other.
    
    
    
15. Add glue to the bottom of one folded tab on the inner layer. Leave the other tabs without glue for now.
    
    
    
16. Carefully place the inner layer onto the face up circle base, with the tabs on the bottom. The shape of the layer should follow the shape of the innermost placement line on the base.
17. Use a thin object with a blunt end, like the handle end of your spatula or weeding tool, to press the glued tab down onto the base.
    
    
    
18. Keep the fairy lights in a coil, but remove any packaging, a battery protector if present, and make sure they work by turning them on and off.
19. Place the still-wound lights on the circular base inside the inner layer.
20. Feed the fairy lights battery pack and wire out underneath the unattached side of the inner layer so the wire goes through the notch.
    
    
    
21. Apply glue to the outside of one remaining unglued tab.
22. Align the bottom of the inner layer to the innermost circle guide.
23. Press down on the glued tab to secure it to the base.
    
    
24. Repeat steps 21-23 with the remaining tabs.
    
    
    NOTE: The layers may not line up perfectly with their guides, and that’s OK! Just try to keep each one from extending outside of its corresponding guide.
    
25. Slide the middle layer down over the inner layer and coiled lights. Align the notch on the middle layer with the notch on the inner layer so the wire on the fairy lights can pass through.
    
    
    
26. Slightly lift up the bottom opposite edge of the middle layer and add glue to the outside of a tab.
    
    
    
27. Align the bottom of the middle layer with the middle circle guide. Press down on the glued tab to secure it to the base.
28. Make sure the wire is feeding through the notch, and repeat steps 26-27 with the remaining tabs on the middle layer.
29. Slide the outer layer down over the first two layers. Align the notch on the outer layer with the notch on the middle layer so the wire passes through.
    
    
    
30. Lift up the bottom edge of the outer layer and add glue to the outside of a tab.
31. Align the bottom of the outer layer with the outer circle guide. Press down on the glued tab to secure it to the base.
32. Make sure the wire is feeding through the notch, and repeat steps 30-31 with the remaining tabs on the outer layer.
    
    
    

STEP 4: SHOW IT OFF!

Here is what my finished Layered Garden Lantern looks like!


If your battery pack is outside your lantern, you can attach it to the back with an adhesive glue dot.