Spring Word Art Designs: Perfect for Pillows & MORE!

Instructions

UPDATE: Cricut Design Space now requires crafters to have a Print Then Cut capable machine (so not an original Joy) registered to print from the program. However, you can print my premade PNG designs just as easily using Google Docs with my related tutorial on printing sublimation designs. The Epson printer steps are very similar for comparable brands.

STEP 1: GET MY FREE WORD SHAPE DESIGNS

First, download my Fill a Shape with Words designs from my free library -- look for Design #585. Alternatively, you can use the Save This Project form near the top of this post and the design link will be emailed to you.

In the download folder, there are heart cut files in the SVG and DXF folders.

There are some pre-made designs in the PNG and PDF folders: a butterfly with a watercolor gradient, one with a solid rainbow gradient, and a heart with a watercolor gradient.

I’ll show you how to use the heart in the SVG folder to create similar designs in Cricut Design Space.

TIP: If you’re not sure how to upload, go to jennifermaker.com/svgs to learn how to unzip and upload files to Cricut Design Space.

STEP 2: PREPARE AND PRINT YOUR DESIGNS

MEASURE YOUR BLANK

You can check the pillowcase’s packaging for dimensions, but it’s always good to measure the height and width just in case. Mine is about 15.5” square, which works well for a design in the middle.


CRICUT DESIGN SPACE

1. Open Cricut Design Space and click “New Project.”
2. Click “Upload” and then “Upload Image.”
3. Click “Browse.”
4. Select the heart outline SVG.
5. Click “Upload.”
6. On the next screen, select your design and click “Add to Canvas.”
   
7. The final design will be created using the print portion of Design Space’s Print Then Cut feature, which has size limitations. To make sure your design will print, click the “Operation” menu and select “Print Then Cut” from the dropdown options.
   
8. With the Lock icon closed, adjust the design’s dimensions to fit the area you want to decorate.
9. If there is a red icon in the Layers Panel, click it and make sure the paper size mentioned matches your material. If not, click “Change Page Size” and adjust it. I’m using 8.5” x 11” paper.
   
10. If the warning icon is still there, click it and select “Auto-Resize Image” to automatically make it the largest dimensions possible.
    
11. Once the shape is the correct size, click the “Operation” menu and select “Guide,” so you’ll have a see-through shape that isn’t part of the final design.
12. Click the “Text” icon.
13. Type the first word you want to use.
    TIP: Depending on your typeface choice, using all caps might fill the rectangle of your word better.
14. Select the “Font” menu.
15. Click “System” to see your added typefaces and search for “JM Sweet,” then click it.
16. Close the Font pop-up.
17. Drag the word to the side.
    NOTE: Don’t worry about the text size yet.
18. Click “Duplicate” to make a new text box with the same settings.
    
19. Double-click the new text box to activate editing mode, then type the next word.
    TIP: It’s helpful to have a mix of words that have different lengths. A short word can help fill in small spots where you need just a little extra space to create the shape’s outline.
20. Drag the new word below the last one on the Canvas.
    NOTE: You’ll use many copies of each word, so keep the originals at the side for future use.
21. Use Steps 18-20 to add all the words you want to use to the Canvas in a list.
    
    TIP: Check your spelling now!
22. Select the longest word, or the one you want to be the focus.
23. Click “Duplicate” to make a copy to use in the design.
    
24. Drag the main word to the largest section of the shape.
25. With the Lock icon closed, drag a corner of the word’s bounding box to resize it to fit in the shape.
    NOTE: You can make the word completely span the shape, or leave some space on either side to add more words later to fill in the space.
26. Use Steps 21-25 to place a copy of each word in your shape, varying their sizes as you prefer.
    
    NOTE: If a word gets very close to the shape’s edge, it’s ok, you can fine tune the placement once you have more words in place.
27. Pick an open area between the Guide’s edge and a word you’ve positioned.
28. Use Steps 21-25 to place smaller copies of each word in the open area, filling from an edge to the closest large word in place. Try to position your words to match the shape’s outline as much as possible. You can adjust each word’s dimensions as you go to fill in spaces, and move the existing text as needed to create the look you want.
    TIP: As you get into filling smaller spaces, opening the Lock icon to adjust a word’s height and width independently can make it easier.
    
29. After you’ve filled in one section, move to the next open area and fill from that edge to a positioned word using the same techniques.
    
30. Use the same technique to fill the rest of the Guide shape with words.
    NOTE: You may need to adjust some words where the filling areas meet, so take your time!
31. Check that the shape’s edges are still recognizable when it’s made with the words by clicking the Eye icon in the Guide Layer to hide it. If the edges don’t look right, click the Eye icon again to show the shape and adjust the text in the problem area.
    
32. When everything looks correct, delete the original list of words.
33. Click the Eye icon for the Guide Layer to hide it.
34. Your base design is almost ready, but you must pick a color fill option before making it a finished sublimation project.
    
    
    

OPTION 1: SINGLE COLOR

1. If you want to make your design using a plain color, click “Select All” in the top menu.
2. Click “Attach” to put all the words into a single Operation group.
   
3. Click the Color Box next to the “Operation” menu and select the color you want for your design.
   
4. With the entire design selected, click the “Operation” menu and select “Print Then Cut.”
   
5. If the red warning icon reappears in your Print Then Cut layer, some of your text may have gone outside the original design. Click the icon and select “Auto-Resize image” to make it fit on your printed sheet again.
6. Your single color design is ready for printing.
   
   

OPTION 2: MANUAL GRADIENT COLORS

1. Decide how many colors you want to use. That’s how many sections you’ll need to divide your design into. I’ll use three: red, orange, and yellow, so I’ll use a third of the design for each color.
2. Click and drag your cursor over the top third of the design, where the text area represents the first color for your gradient.
   
3. If there are words selected that you want to make a different color, hold your Command key (Mac) or Control key (Windows) and select the layer in the Layers Panel that you want to remove from the selection.
4. Or, if there’s a word you want to add, hold your Shift key and click it in the Layers Panel to add it to the selection.
   
5. Click the Color Box and select the first color you want to use. I’ll use red.
   
6. Use Steps 2-5 to select the other sections for your gradient and change their colors. I’ll make the middle orange and the bottom a gold yellow.
7. Click “Select All” in the top menu.
8. Click “Flatten” to put all the words into a single Operation group.
   
   NOTE: If the red warning icon reappears in your Print Then Cut layer, some of your text may have gone outside the original design. Click the icon and select “Auto-Resize image” to make it fit on your printed sheet again.
9. Your gradient design is ready for printing.

OPTION 3: PATTERN FILL

1. Click “Select All” in the top menu.
2. Click “Attach” to put all the words into a single Operation group.
3. Click the “Operation” menu and select “Print Then Cut.”
4. Click the Color Box next to Operation.
5. Under “Print Type” select “Pattern.”
   
6. Click “Filter” and pick a color to explore different Pattern options.
   
7. Select a Pattern.
8. Click off of the design so the Pattern can render.
9. To adjust the Pattern, click the design again, then click the Color Box and select “Edit Pattern.”
   
10. You can use these tools to adjust the pattern and see the new results in the preview.
11. “Scale” increases or decreases the size of the pattern on the shape. You can zoom in and out using the slider.
    
12. “Horizontal” or “Vertical” moves the pattern side to side or up and down.
    
13. “Rotate” rotates the pattern on the shape.
    
14. And the left Flip icon flips the pattern horizontally, while the right icon flips it vertically.
    
15. Edit the Pattern until you like the result, then close the pop-up to see the final result.
    
16. If the red warning icon reappears in your Print Then Cut layer, some of your text may have gone outside the original design. Click the icon and select “Auto-Resize image” to make it fit on your printed sheet again.
17. If you see a yellow warning icon in the Layers Panel, it’s Design Space saying that the image has low resolution, or not enough detail in the file to make a nice-looking print at a big size. It will print just fine at the size needed for the project, I promise, but going much bigger won’t look as nice.
18. Your pattern fill design is ready for printing.

FOR ANY COLOR OPTION

1. Make sure the correct machine is selected in the top right.
2. Click “Make.”
3. If prompted, click "On Mat," choose your mat size, and click “Confirm.”
4. On the Prepare Screen, make sure your Material Size is set to “8.5 in x 11 in (Letter).”
5. Click “Mirror” since we’ll apply the design face down when sublimating.
   
6. Click “Continue.”
   

PRINTING

1. On the Make Screen, click “Send to Printer.”
2. Select your printer from the Printer dropdown.
3. Toggle “Add Bleed” off since we don’t want extra ink around the design.
4. Toggle “Use System Dialog” on.
5. Click “Print.”
   TIP: You may need to minimize or move your Design Space window to see the print dialog window. It sometimes appears behind Design Space. Each printer is different, so consult your printer's user guide for additional support.
   
6. The print dialog box should have the correct printer selected, the Media set to “Premium Photo Matte,” and the Quality set to “Best.” “Flip Horizontally” should be unchecked.
   
   NOTE: Your screen and settings may look different, but use mine as a guide to pick the closest options you have available.
7. Make sure the sublimation paper is loaded correctly in your printer.
8. Click “Print.”
9. Set the print aside to let it dry. Be careful not to smudge it.
   
10. We’ll cut the pieces by hand, so you can close Cricut Design Space.
    

CUTTING

1. For a normal Print Then Cut project, we’d put the printed image on a machine mat and use the Cricut to cut out the shape. But since we’re sublimating the design, just cut a square around the design.
   NOTE: Leave about a quarter inch of white space around the design’s largest parts, but make sure you trim away the black registration marks.
   
   TIP: Sometimes a blunt cut edge can leave an indent in the fabric after pressing, so tearing (called feathering) the paper makes it more gradual.
2. Fold the left edge to the right edge so the design’s widest section matches up, and crease just on the white paper at the top and bottom edge to mark the middle.
   NOTE: Don’t crease the ink or the transfer may be damaged.
3. Repeat by folding the bottom edge to the top and creasing the sides to find the middle.
   

STEP 3: PREPARE AND SUBLIMATE YOUR PILLOW

CAUTION: Good ventilation is important any time you use sublimation. Have your windows open and a fan going to help the fumes dissipate quickly. And don’t breathe in very close to the project while it’s still warm.
NOTE: Your design’s colors will be influenced by the printer profile you use and will not exactly match what is on the printed paper. It’s a good idea to sublimate a test design on some scrap white polyester fabric using these steps before moving to your final project.

1. Set your heat press to the correct temperature and time. According to my Sublimation Cookbook, the EasyPress 2 needs to be set at 385° F (196° C) for 60 seconds for a polyester pillowcase.
2. Place your pressing mat on the pressing area.
3. Lay out the pillowcase face up, making sure it’s not stretched or wrinkly.
   
4. Lint roll the design area to remove dust or debris.
5. Fold the bottom edge up to match the top, which creates a horizontal line at the center point.
   
6. Put fresh white butcher paper on top of the pillow case to protect it from direct heat.
   
7. Lightly press the crease and design area for 10 seconds to remove excess moisture from the material, smooth out any extra wrinkles, and create the horizontal crease.
   NOTE: If your press is larger than the pillowcase, make sure the zipper, especially the zipper head, is not under your heat press because it could get damaged.
8. Unfold the pillowcase to show the first crease.
   
9. Use Steps 5-8 to add a vertical crease by folding and pressing the side edges together.
   NOTE: The creases intersect at the pillowcase’s middle to help you position the design perfectly in the center.
10. If you only have a pressing pad, put clean white cardstock inside the pillowcase to protect the back layer from excess ink.
    NOTE: Position the pillowcase on the pressing mat face up with the zippered edge closest to you so the opening will be at the least visible edge once the design is added.
11. Move the zippered edge down and off the pressing pad’s edge so the rest of the pillowcase is flat and you can press the design without issue.
    
12. If you have a pressing pillow that will fit inside the case and is larger than your design, set the bottom pressing pad aside.
    NOTE: Putting the pressing pillow inside the pillow case can lift the design area away from the zipper, making a better transfer.
13. Put the pressing pillow inside the pillowcase under the design area to lift the fabric away from the edges and zipper.
    NOTE: Position the pillowcase face up with the zippered edge closest to you so the opening will be at the least visible edge once the design is added.
14. Add white cardstock inside the pillowcase on top of the pressing pillow to protect it and the back layer from excess ink.
    
15. Place the design face down on the pillowcase so the image is correctly oriented for the opening.
16. Align the creases on the paper with those on the pillowcase to center it.
    
17. Secure the design in place with heat-resistant tape.
    
18. Place butcher paper on top of the pillowcase and taped design.
19. Press the design with light pressure for 60 seconds at the correct temperature.
    
20. When the time is up, lift the press straight up and return it to its base.
21. After pressing, allow the design to sit for approximately 10 seconds to help prevent ghosting.
22. Remove the butcher paper, tape, and transfer sheet to reveal the sublimated design.
    
23. Insert the pillow form and zip the pillowcase closed.
    
    

STEP 4: SHOW IT OFF!

Here is what my finished sublimation pillow looks like!