Lighted Shadow Box Techniques for Decor and Depth!

Instructions

STEP 1: GET MY FREE Lighted Shadow Box DESIGN FILES

First, download my free Lighted Shadow Box SVG/PDF/DXF collection from my resource library -- it's Design #461.

The download folder includes PDFs to cut by hand, and DXF or SVG files for use with a cutting machine. I'll show you how to use the SVGs with a Cricut.

Upload the SVG file of your choice to Cricut Design Space and add it to your Canvas.

I'll add the Polar Bear and Snowflakes scene.

TIP: If you are not sure how to upload an SVG cut file to Cricut Design Space, watch this helpful video training series I made. If you are on an iPad or iPhone, here is how to download and upload SVG files to the Cricut Design Space app.

STEP 2: PREPARE THE DESIGN FILE

This is what my Polar Bear and Snowflakes SVG file looks like on my Canvas. You can zoom out to see all of the design by clicking on the minus (-) sign on the lower left.

If you have more than one file on your Canvas, click and drag one to the side so they're both visible. You can create your own version by changing the stacking order and orientation of the layers. Snowflakes are all unique and so are you!

The full design is sized for the 9" x 9" shadow box frame in my material list. If you want to resize it for another frame, make sure the lock icon at the top is closed, then change the W to your desired size.

If you don't want to include the bear, click that layer in the Layers Panel and click Delete. I'm keeping him!

I'm making my design in White, Light Blue, Medium Blue, and Dark Blue. You can choose whatever colors you like and change the necessary layers using the color box at the top. Just be sure there is enough contrast between each color. Certain color cardstock takes the color of led lights better, like blues.

The design is ready to cut!

STEP 3: CUT YOUR DESIGN

Make sure you have the right machine selected and click "Make It."

If prompted, click "On Mat," "12 in x 12 in," and "Confirm."

If you're using the same cardstock as I am, make sure the Material Size is "12 in x 12 in" for everything.

Click back on the first mat and click "Continue."

I used the "Cardstock (for intricate cuts)" setting for all my mats.

To find it, click "Browse All Materials" and type "Intricate" in the search bar. Then select the result, click "Apply."
Leave the Pressure at "Default."

Design Space doesn't cut your mats in the same order as your design, so make sure you have the right colors in the order on the screen.

For more on how Design Space decides on the cut order, check out my tutorial on Mat Order.

My layers cut well on a green StandardGrip machine mat, but if you have trouble getting clean cuts try the blue LightGrip mat. Place your first color face up on the mat and use a brayer to make sure it's fully adhered. Check that your Fine-Point Blade is clean and in Clamp B. Then, load the mat into the machine and press "Go."

When the cut is finished, unload the mat, flip it over, and roll it back to release the cardstock. This helps prevent the material from curling and ripping.

Place the cut pieces to the side face up just as they are on the screen so their orientation doesn't get mixed up.

Repeat the same steps for the rest of the mats. The mats with intricate details will take longer to cut. You can slide your spatula gently under those pieces to remove them without tearing.

STEP 4: ASSEMBLE THE LAYERS

Here's what all of my cut pieces for the Polar Bear and Snowflakes scene look like. The plain background, large snowflakes, and the layer before the trees are the back section and the rest are the front. The shadow box has an inner wood piece that will go in between them.

Remove the backing and inner wooden piece (if you're using the one from my list) from the shadow box.

Clean the glass with alcohol and a coffee filter or lint-free cloth. Put the frame face down. You can put butcher paper underneath to protect it if you'd like.

You can use a corner of the shadow box to line up your layers. First, place the background layer face up in the frame so it's tight with one corner.

To the side, stack the other back layers face down in order with the front-most design at the bottom.

NOTE: If you want to experiment with fairy lights near the back layer as I'll cover in a few steps, don't attach the next layer to the back yet, just place it on top.

Now, you will be applying the adhesive zots or foam dots every few inches on the back of each next layer. Start with the next back layer, then flip it over and place it on top of the background, making sure the corner lines up. Press gently in case you need to realign, then secure it down.

Continue for the rest of the back layers.

Remove the assembled layers and repeat the alignment and adhering process for the front section.

Then, stack the assembled sections face up to get the layout you want with the wood insert in between. You can stack them in the frame to help with alignment if you like.

STEP 5: ADD YOUR LAYERS TO THE SHADOW BOX WITH OPTIONAL LIGHTS

Take out the assembled layers to check for smudges or dust in the shadow box. Wipe down the glass again with alcohol and a lint-free cloth if needed.

Before putting everything together, we can add the optional lights. The process is different for strip lights or fairy lights, or even a combination of the two.

LED Strip Lights

Grab your light strip and make sure it turns on. Remember to check the batteries!

We’ll attach the battery pack to the frame's back to keep it accessible, so we need to cut a notch in the backing to allow the wire through. With the hardware facing up at the top, place the backer on your self-healing mat. Use your craft knife to carefully make a diagonal cut across one of the bottom corners about .5" tall.

Set the backer to the side and put the frame face down in front of you.

Place the front assembled cardstock layers face down in the frame in the correct orientation.

I'm using the wood insert, so will attach the lights to the inside surface of that piece. It's a bit easier outside of the frame.

NOTE: If you're not using the insert, the process is very similar. First, put the front cardstock layers into the frame, face down. Add the back layers on top and measure the remaining depth between the cardstock and where the backing will be. Roughly divide the depth by the width of your lights to estimate how many times you can wrap the strip around the frame in between the assembled layers.

Unroll a foot of lights starting near the battery pack. Use your weeding tool to lift some protective plastic.

Put the battery pack beside the frame where the notch will be.

Attach the exposed adhesive to the inside of the insert or frame in that corner. Put it against the front edge of the insert or the assembled cardstock layers, depending on your setup.

Keep peeling off the backing and attaching the lights evenly around the perimeter. Get them as smooth as possible to the wood so they won't be visible. Gently push in the corners so they stay secure.

When you finish the first round, your lights should look similar to mine.

Angle the strip up a bit to add another row of lights right above. More lights will make the design easier to see!

Once you’re back at the beginning again, cut the excess lights at the closest icon with + and - symbols. Make sure your lights are off.

Put the lighted insert back in the frame with the wire at the correct corner for the notch.

Place the back assembled layers face down in the frame on top.

Now you can reattach your shadow box's backing and slide the wire through the notch!

Then, secure the battery pack with more glue dots or double-sided foam tape on the back if it will sit on a shelf. If you want to hang it, attach the pack to the frame’s outside edge so you can turn the lights off and on.

Fairy Lights

There are a few ways to use fairy lights but I wanted to try something new to create a concentrated light source in one spot.

Use the same steps to cut a notch in the backer.

Make sure your fairy lights work, then experiment with ways to condense them into a few inches. I tried balling them up or coiling them in a few layers, but you might find a better way! The goal is to keep them together enough to hide behind the design elements. I'm going to place mine behind the center of the big snowflake for this design.

Place the assembled back layers face down. The solid back layer can be face up to the side. Put the fairy light battery pack at the corner where the notch will be.

Add a glue dot or two to the back of the snowflake layer where you want to put the condensed lights. Gently put the lights into place but don't press down so we can check the placement.

Carefully flip the stack and lights over and make sure you can't see wires or lights from the front. Adjust any pieces you need to. The flatter the lights are the better the layers will go together!

Then flip the assembly back over and place it face down in the frame to use a corner for alignment. Add more glue dots around the perimeter of the snowflake layer. You can also add a few to the back of the light source.

Then place the background layer face down on top, making sure the corner is aligned.

Remove the lighted layer. Place the front section face down in the frame, followed by the wood insert and then the back assembly.

Now you can reattach your shadow box's backing and slide the wire through the notch!

Then, secure the battery pack with more glue dots or double-sided foam tape on the back if it will sit on a shelf. If you want to hang it, attach the pack to the frame’s outside edge so you can turn the lights off and on.

Strip and Fairy Light Combination


For a really fun glow, you can use both types of lights together! Just combine the steps above.


Then, use glue dots or double-sided foam tape to keep the battery packs together before mounting them to the back or side.

TIP: If you find the back cardstock layer is too thick for the fairy lights to shine through, you could try adding another set of fairy lights, or try using vellum as the back layer to let all the light shine through. Remember we want to let the light shine through, without ever seeing the lights themselves, or any of the adhesive materials.

STEP 6: SHOW THEM OFF!

Hang your shadow boxes and enjoy decorating for winter or year-round!