How To Make Full Sublimation Shirts With All Over Designs

Instructions

STEP 1: GET MY FREE FULL SHIRT SUBLIMATION DESIGNS

First, download my Full Sublimation Shirt designs from my free library – look for Design #614. Alternatively, you can use the Save This Project form near the top of this post and the design link will be emailed to you.

In the PNG folder, there is one sublimation design with a pretty field of flowers.

I’ll show you how to prepare and sublimate both sides of a shirt with the same design.

TIP: If you’re not sure how to download Zip files, go to jennifermaker.com/svgs because the steps are similar for PNGs and Google Docs.

Unzip the downloaded folder.

STEP 2: PREPARE YOUR FULL SUBLIMATION SHIRT DESIGN

1. To measure your shirt’s design area, smooth it out flat so the side seams are straight and the fabric isn’t stretched or bunched up.
2. Use a tape measure to measure the width from seam to seam, then height from the very bottom edge (including the hem) to where you want the design to end on the chest.
   NOTE: For the adult small shirt I’m using, I recorded the width as 18” and height as 21” to end on the upper chest.
   
3. Open Google Drive and in the upper left corner, click on “New.”
4. Then go to “More” and select “Google Drawings.”
5. Once Google Drawings is open, select “Page Setup” under the “File” menu.
6. Select “custom” and input your shirt’s dimensions. My design area is 18” x 21”.
   
7. Click “Apply.”
8. Under the “Insert” menu, select “Image” and “Upload from computer.”
9. Find your file and click “Open.”
10. With the image selected on the canvas, click “Format options.”
11. Click “Size & Rotation.”
12. Check the box for “Lock aspect ratio” to maintain the design’s proportions.
13. Change the “Width” and “Height” to match your measurements.
    NOTE: For the small adult Cricut shirt, I set my design’s Width to 18” and the Height to 21”.
    
14. Then, click “Position” and select “Top left” in the “From” drop-down. Set both the “x” and “y” fields to “0” to make the design’s top left corner move to the top left of the canvas so it all fits.
    
15. To save the file to your computer, go to the “File” menu and select “Download.”
    NOTE: Be sure to download the file as a PDF if you will print using Adobe Acrobat Reader. A recent update to Adobe Acrobat Reader may impact your ability to use the "Poster" tool depending on your operating system. I have alternate steps to use the free website Gizmoa in Step 3. If you will use Gizmoa, download the design as a PNG instead.
    

STEP 3: PRINT YOUR SUBLIMATION DESIGN

1. Download and open the free version of Adobe Acrobat Reader.
   NOTE: A recent update to Adobe Acrobat Reader may impact your ability to use the "Poster" tool depending on your operating system. I have alternate steps to use the free website Gizmoa at the bottom of this section.
2. Open the design PDF.
3. Select “Print” from the “File” menu.
   NOTE: Your settings may look slightly different than mine depending on your computer and printer, but use my choices as a guide.
4. In the print dialog box, make sure your sublimation printer is selected and select “Poster.”
   NOTE: I recommend printing and sublimating one side at a time to avoid confusing your panels. I like to sublimate the back first to get comfortable with how the panels go together so I can make it look even better on the front.
5. Set the Overlap to “0.2,” and check the “Cut Marks” box.
   
   NOTE: Using the Poster setting will print multiple 8.5" x 11" sheets of paper. For this design and size, it will print out six sheets of paper.
6. Click the Printer button in the lower left corner to set up for sublimation printing.
7. Under “Layout” make sure “Flip Horizontally” is checked.
   
   NOTE: Optionally, for “Colormatching,” click “ColorSync” and select your ICC profile.
8. For “Print Settings” select “Photo Matte Paper” and “Best" Quality.
9. Make sure you have sublimation paper loaded correctly into your printer and click “Print.”
10. As the pages print, gently remove them and place them face up one at a time to dry without smudging.

VARIATION: GIZMOA

1. In your computer browser, go to jennifermaker.com/gizmoa.
2. Click “Choose file.”
3. Locate and “Open” your PNG design.
   NOTE: A tiled preview of the design will load on the screen with controls.
4. Change the “Printed Dimensions” fields to match your sublimation paper and the area to cover the width of your shirt.
   NOTE: I used “US Letter” in “Portrait” for my 8.5” x 11” sublimation paper, kept “Aspect Locked” on, and set the “Width” to “18.”
5. Under “Drawing,” click the triangle next to “More Options.”
6. Keep the box for “Tabs” and “Guides” checked, and check the box for “Overlaps.”
7. For “Tab Width,” use “0.35.”
8. For “Overlap Width,” use “0.25.”
9. Under “Margins,” use “0.25.”
10. Click “Save as PDF.”
11. Open the PDF in Adobe Acrobat.
12. Click “File” and select “Print.”
13. Make sure your sublimation printer is selected in the drop-down menu.
14. Click “Size” and select “Actual Size.
15. Then, click the “Printer” button for some sublimation printing settings.
16. Under “Layout” make sure “Flip Horizontally” is checked since we’re going to use heat to transfer the design and it needs to be mirrored.
17. For your paper and print quality, select “Photo Matte Paper” and “Best” Quality.
18. Make sure you have sublimation paper loaded correctly into your printer according to the packaging, and click “Print.” For my project, this tool used nine pieces of paper.
19. As the pages print, gently remove them and place each face up to dry without smudging.
20. Trim the sheets along the gray dashed lines, then pick up the main assembly tutorial to put your tiles together.
    

STEP 4: PREPARE YOUR PRINT FOR SUBLIMATION

1. Lay out the pages like the complete design to make sure everything printed correctly.
2. If we start with the bottom right panel we're going to mentally number our pages 1 - 6 going clockwise.
   
   NOTE: You should notice the Cut Marks, they look like two corners with a straight line in the middle. We are going to cut between the middle and outer marks, leaving the middle and inner to help with alignment. Any marks within the main design area will be trimmed away before pressing.
3. On Panel 1, we’ll prepare and trim the top long edge and the left short edge.
   
4. Place the panel face down on a clean work surface.
5. Get a piece of blue heat-resistant tape about the length of the top edge.
6. Lightly place the tape along the edge so the top slightly goes past where the ink ends.
   NOTE: Our goal is for the tape to go all the way to the edge after we trim the white area away.
   TIP: If you’re having trouble seeing where the ink starts, try placing the sheet on a light pad or holding it up to a light.
   
7. Make sure there are no wrinkles in the tape, then smooth it down well with your fingers.
8. Repeat for the short edge where it will meet the other panel.
   NOTE: It’s ok for the tape pieces to overlap.
9. Extend the guide arm on your paper trimmer.
10. Place Panel 1 face up on the trimmer’s cutting area so the taped long edge is under the guide ruler.
11. Adjust the print so the cut line will be just inside the outer cut mark, which means it will remove about ⅛” of the design, which is ok since we’re working with overlapping pieces.
    
12. Lower the guide ruler and make sure the paper is straight by butting the top edge against the guide, then make sure the cut will still be in the correct spot.
13. Hold the ruler in place with one hand but keep your fingers away from the blade.
14. With your other hand, bring the blade straight down in a smooth motion to make the cut.
    NOTE: The main panel and the little piece you trimmed should each have ink and tape all the way to one edge.
    
15. Repeat the process for the other side you taped.
16. Repeat the process for the other panels, taping and trimming the following sides for each:
    Panel 2 (bottom left): top and right edge
    Panel 3 (middle left): top, bottom, and right edge
    Panel 4 (top left): bottom and right edge
    Panel 5 (top right): bottom and left edge
    Panel 6 (middle right): This will be the Anchor Panel and does not get taped. Trim top, bottom, and left edge.
17. Place Panel 6, the Anchor Panel, face up on your work surface in the correct orientation.
18. Add a short piece of heat-resistant tape sticky side up to the back of the bottom edge so it’s secure but there is adhesive visible.
    
19. Align a remaining cut mark on Panel 1 with one on Panel 6, then hold that in place and pivot Panel 1 until the rest of the design lines up at the seam.
    NOTE: If the early seams are misaligned, it will be more difficult to position the remaining panels correctly, so take your time.
20. Once the panels are aligned correctly, press Panel 1 in place on the tape from Panel 6.
    
21. Add heat-resistant tape over the seam by the aligned cut marks, away from the design.
    NOTE: This will help keep the panels in place while we align the rest, but we will trim the excess tape and cut marks away before pressing.
22. Continue adding the Panels in order using the same method.
    TIP: When needed, gently rotate the assembled panels to reach the next areas you’re adding instead of reaching over the project.
23. Once everything is tiled, look closely all over the papers to make sure the elements are aligned and there are no cut marks remaining in the design.
    
24. Add a few pieces of heat-resistant tape in the outer white areas of the seams to keep everything secure.
    NOTE: Stay at least .75” away from the ink.
25. Carefully flip the assembled panels over.
26. Starting in the middle between Panels 6 and 3, gently place a strip of heat-resistant tape along the seam.
    TIP: If any tape gets bunched up, trim it away and try again with a fresh piece.
27. Once you’re sure the tape is smooth, press it down along the seam.
    
28. Working from the middle out clockwise, add heat-resistant tape to the rest of the seams.
    TIP: We’ll trim the excess white paper away from around the design, so you don’t have to tape the entire seam if the ink only covers part of it.
29. Smoothly run your scraper tool over each seam to press the tape down, being careful not to snag any pieces where they overlap.
30. Then use the scraper’s thin edge to push the tape right into each seam, including the top visible seam and where the lower paper finishes overlapping with the upper panel about 1/8”-1/4” away.
    
    TIP: Making the paper on either side of the seams even by pressing the surfaces together will help create an invisible seam as the ink can span their difference easier. The less visible the seam, the more consistent your transfer will look in the end.
31. Carefully flip the project over.
32. Use scissors to cut about .5” around the design’s rough outline, removing the extra white paper.
    
    
    
33. At the bottom, cut in a straight line about .25” from the design.

STEP 5: SUBLIMATE YOUR T-SHIRT

IMPORTANT: As with any sublimation project, turn on a fan and open a window to improve your ventilation before pressing.

1. Set your EasyPress to 385° F (196° C) and 10 seconds for preheating.
2. We want to keep the T-shirt’s design area as even as possible, so place matching heat-resistant pressing pads with their edges against each other to match or slightly extend past the garment’s sides and the height of the area you’re decorating.
   NOTE: I put two pressing pads together in portrait orientation to match the area for a small adult Cricut shirt, but you can also work with one pad, just be careful when shifting the project to press new areas.
   
3. Place a piece of white uncoated butcher paper completely covering the top pad, aligned with the lower edge.
4. Add another piece of butcher paper covering the lower pad, slightly overlapping the first piece.
5. Attach them with heat-resistant tape.
   NOTE: Usually we use white cardstock to protect the pressing surface, but any edges could impact the transfer, so the large, smooth area created with the thinner butcher paper is easier to manage.
   
6. Carefully cut away any tags in the shirt’s side seams that will interfere with the transfer.
   TIP: Also trim away any loose threads that can interrupt the print.
7. Use a lint roller to remove any dust or debris from the front and back of the shirt.
8. Place the shirt centered on the protected pressing pads so the design area is completely on them, and smooth out the fabric layers.
   NOTE: You can start with the front or back of the shirt.
9. Use heat-resistant tape to secure the back bottom edge of the shirt to the lower butcher paper, and then at the shoulders or another place you aren’t decorating to keep the shirt in place.
   
10. Cut pieces of butcher paper long enough to go under the entire design and out the bottom of the shirt.
    NOTE: Cut enough that you can overlap them to fill the width of the shirt from seam to seam. For an adult small, I used two pieces.
11. Slide a piece of butcher paper up into the shirt and up against a side seam to protect the lower layer from the ink.
12. Gently adjust the seam so the inner fabric is underneath the paper so it won’t unevenly lift a section of the shirt
    
13. Hold that seam in place and add the butcher paper inside to meet the other side seam.
    NOTE: If any of the lower fabric is unprotected between the butcher paper, slide in another piece.
14. Make sure the shirt is smooth and still free from lint.
15. Since the press is smaller than the design, we’ll heat it in sections, including for the preheating.
16. Cover the lower right area of the shirt with butcher paper, then press it with light pressure for 10 seconds to remove wrinkles and moisture.
17. Gently lift the press without shifting the shirt, then shift the butcher paper to a new spot and continue pre-heating it all in sections.
    NOTE: Slightly overlapping your presses and going over the seam between the pads is fine when preheating.
18. Let the shirt cool completely so the ink won’t begin sublimating while positioning the design.
19. Set your EasyPress to 40 seconds.
20. Make sure the shirt is still smooth and cool to the touch.
21. Set the taped print face down on the shirt so the art goes just beyond the bottom seam and sides.
22. Without shifting the paper or shirt, secure the top edge to the fabric with heat-resistant tape.
    TIP: Try to keep the tape on white sections of the paper instead of near the ink.
23. Hold the top edge in place and carefully smooth straight down to secure the bottom with tape to the butcher paper.
24. Repeat the process to secure the print at either side, too.
    NOTE: If taping shifts the shirt or design, remove it and try again.
    
25. Cover the lower section with butcher paper so its top edge is in the seam between the pressing pads.
    NOTE: To keep the pressing area even, we won’t press over the seam between the pads.
26. Keeping the heat press 1” away from the top of the butcher paper and therefore the pad seam, press the lower right section of the design with light pressure for 40 seconds.
    
    TIP: Support the press’ cord with one hand to keep it from dragging over the design and shifting anything.
27. When time is up, lift the press and cord straight up, then press the left side the same way.
28. If you can press the area above the first areas while remaining 1” away from the pad seam, heat the next area in sections, too.
29. Let the shirt cool to the touch before moving anything to proceed.
30. Carefully remove the butcher paper so you can see the sections you’ve heated.
    
    NOTE: Ink will show through the pressed areas more, and the paper might be slightly yellowed from the heat.
31. Gently pull the project up by the lower butcher paper piece so the top edge of the already-pressed area is about 1” above the seam between the pressing pads.
    
32. Add fresh butcher paper on top of the new section with the bottom edge aligned on the seam between the pressing pads so you know to stay at least 1” away from it.
33. Press the remaining sections the same way, repeating the process until the entire design is transferred.
    
34. Let the shirt cool completely so the sublimation process finishes.
35. Remove the outside butcher paper, then the tape and the processed design to see your first side’s result.
    
    

STEP 6: SUBLIMATE THE SECOND SIDE

1. To decorate the second side, repeat the printing and design tiling process and cut the image to size the same way.
2. To prepare the shirt, leave the inner butcher paper in place but carefully remove any tape holding the shirt down.
3. Holding the shirt and inner papers in place at the side seams, gently flip the project so it’s face down on the protected pressing mats.
4. Remove and replace the inner butcher paper, making sure the seams are straight and aligned again.
5. The shirt is already pre-heated, so you don’t need to heat it again to remove moisture.
6. Gently lint roll the surface in case any dust or debris has stuck to it.
7. Take your time to completely smooth the fabric out again and make sure the butcher papers are in position to keep new ink from getting to the previously-sublimated layer.
   NOTE: Check that the side seams are still straight along the paper so some of the new design can transfer to them, blending with the front.
   
8. Repeat the design placement and sublimation process using the same steps as the first side to complete your full sublimation shirt.
   

STEP 7: SHOW IT OFF!

Here is my full sublimation shirt!