Sublimation Socks: Best Blank Choices + Design Ideas

Instructions

STEP 1: GET OR PREPARE A SUBLIMATION DESIGN

You can use my Sublimation Socks design files from my resource library, Design #474.

Download the files and pick your design. There are PNG designs for ankle, and taller socks.

From fun flip flops in several styles






To athletic and taller length “high tops” in various colors
 




Open Google Docs in the Google Chrome web browser on your computer. You can also download and open the Google Docs app, but be aware that you won’t be able to install or access any printer profiles from a mobile device, and you’re also limited in features, so I do not recommend it on a mobile device. (Note: You will need a free Google account to use the free Google Docs  and Google Drawing software.)

With Google Docs open, click on "Blank" in the upper left corner to open a new document.


Go to the "File" menu and select "Page Setup". Change your margins to “0” and change your Paper Size to match your sublimation paper size. Mine is 8.5" x 11".

Go to the "Insert" menu, select "Image", and select "Upload from Computer". Locate the sublimation design you want to use (hint: it’s probably in your Downloads folder), and click "Open". I’m using the sunflower flip flop design in the lighter skin tone for an ankle sock. To make a design for a larger sock, see the extra steps under Variation.

The image will appear and fill your page — it will not necessarily come in at the size originally designed. We need to get the size just right for the sock.

Put the sock on the jig, line up the toe and heel of the sock on the jig so that when worn, the design will be on top. Then measure its length and width. Yours may be different, but my ankle sock is about 3.25” wide and 10” long. The design will go from the toe to below the cuff, and that’s about 9”.

To resize the image, right-click the image,  select "Image Options," make sure the "Lock aspect ratio" box is checked, and change the Width or Height field. 

Adjust the image on your page by selecting it, then click on the second icon from the left in the menu below it, which means “Wrap Text”.

Now, you can click and drag the image anywhere on your page. I recommend putting your design in the center of your page, as that ensures it won’t get cut off at the edges and you have plenty of space for cutting/tearing its edges if needed.

Once the size is correct, click the Printer icon on the upper left of the page. 

STEP 2: PRINT THE TRANSFER

Print the design following my earlier Sublimation Design Printing tutorial and the correct steps for your printer and project.

STEP 3: PREPARE THE PRINT AND SOCK BLANKS FOR SUBLIMATION

After the ink is dry, remove the page from your printer. Don't worry if the ink doesn't look very dark, sublimation ink isn't like regular ink. It will be more vibrant on the project. Cut each flip flop from the page carefully trimming around the edges, and set them aside.

Set the temperature of your press to 385° F (196° C) and the time to 10 seconds. I am using my EasyPress 2 but you can use a larger press if you’d like.

These settings worked for my ankle socks, but check the Cricut Heat Guide to verify the details for your materials and tools.

Place each sock on a jig so the top of the sock is flat and the toe is lined up with the end. 

Preheat your sock blanks on the jig for 10 seconds and use a lint roller to remove any extra strings or dust. 

STEP 4: SUBLIMATE ON THE SOCKS

NOTE: Before you start, open a window or set up a fan to improve your ventilation. Since we’re heating up sublimation dye, you don’t want to breathe in any of the fumes!

Set your heat press to 385° F (196° C) and time to 40 seconds.

Place a clean white page of cardstock on the pressing surface to protect it. 

To prevent ink blowout on the sock jig, I'm going to wrap the jig with a sheet of butcher paper and use a piece of heat-resistant tape and secure the paper to itself on the back. Ensure the sock is secure on the jig and place it on the cardstock.

Having the jig in place not only stops ink from bleeding through to the other side but also helps keep tension on the fabric for a better result.

Use a lint roller to remove dust or debris from the surface of the sock.

Place the sock top side up on the cardstock, and lay the sublimated design, printed side down, over the sock. Line up the toes on the design with the toe of the sock. The design, when properly sized, should cover the entire top of the sock just to the edge.

Use a few pieces of heat-resistant tape to secure the transfer in place. I found it easier to tape the design over the sock and to the cardstock below it.  

Cover the transfer and jig with a sheet of white butcher paper and press for 40 seconds. 

When the time is up, you can remove the butcher paper. To prevent ghosting, leave the print to cool for a couple of minutes to let the sublimation process complete. After it has cooled, remove the tape and paper.

Once the sock and jig are cool remove the decorated sock, and repeat with the other sock.

VARIATION: ATHLETIC OR LONGER-LENGTH SOCKS

The PNGs for the longer socks won’t fit on one page, so there’s a bit more preparation. I’ll show you how with the orange high-top design with a tall sock. This design also has a front and a back, so there are two files to use. We’ll prepare the front with the laces first.

Since the PNG for the high-top socks can be used on either the left or right foot, we'll need to print out two copies each of a matching laces and back design.

We need the dimensions of our sock, so put one on a jig, keeping the sock straight and lining up the seam of the toe with the end of the jig. Measure the height and width. Yours might be different, but the front of my tall sock is 3.25" wide and 18" tall. 

Open Google Drive and in the upper left corner click on New. Go to More and select Google Drawings. 

With Google Drawing open, go to the "File" menu and select "Page Setup". Under the dropdown, select Custom and adjust the page size to be a bit wider than your sock and sock jig since the design will wrap around a bit to blend the seams. I’ll make the page 3.4” wide and 18” tall. Click “Apply.”

Go to the "Insert" menu, select "Image", and select "Upload from Computer". Locate the sublimation design you want to use and click "Open". I’ll start with the orange high-top design for the front of the sock.

The image will appear and fill your page — it will not necessarily come in at the size originally designed. With the image on the screen use the bounding box and pull from the edges of the image to resize it. You can make the image smaller or larger based on your sock jig, and it's flexible enough that the ratio isn't super important. You can also use the Format Options under the Format tab, Size & Rotation to adjust the width and height of the sock design.

Once the size is correct, click File, Download, then PDF Document.

Saving the file as a PDF will allow us to import it into Adobe Acrobat to print in pieces we can tile together to fit the sock. 

Rename and Save the file.

Since I'm not sublimating on the bottom of the sock, the design on the back is shorter than the front. With the sock on the jig, measure from the top edge of the sock to the heel. Mine is about 7”.

Use the same steps to create a PDF in Google Drawings with the back design sized for your dimensions. Again, round up the width a bit so it can wrap around the sides. I made mine 3.4” wide and 7” tall. 

To prepare and print your designs with the free version of Adobe Acrobat Reader, as shown in our previous tutorial How to Sublimate Large Designs

Once installed, select Open under the File Menu and select the design for the front of the sock. Click on the Printer Icon on the upper left side of the page.


Your window might look different, but use my settings as guidelines.

In the print dialog box, be sure that your sublimation printer is selected and then click on the Poster tab. This will allow us to print the full length of the sock in sections on two sheets of paper. Set “Overlap” to .”02” and turn on Cut Marks, then change Orientation to Portrait. Next click on Printer on the bottom left.

Be sure that the media and quality are set to Photo Matte and Best. 
Next click on Advanced next to where your printer is listed. Under Color Profile select your printer's ICC profile and click OK.

Make sure your sublimation paper is loaded correctly in your printer. 

Click Print to send one copy, then click print again to make the second for the other sock.  Once the pages are printed and the ink is dry, use a paper trimmer to trim the extra paper off the designs’ seam edges. Feed the paper into the trimmer until you see the cut marks, and trim the paper along that edge. Use heat-resistant tape to join the sheets together, being careful not to cover any ink. Cut or tear off any excess paper. 



Since these are larger designs, you can press them either all at once with a large heat press or in sections with a smaller one.

Set the temperature of your press to 385° F (196° C) and time to 10 seconds.

These settings worked for my athletic socks, but check the Cricut Heat Guide to verify the details for your materials and tools.

Place a heat-resistant mat on a flat surface.  

Preheat your sock blanks on the heat pad for 10 seconds heel side down. You can do it in sections, just make sure they each get the full amount of ››time. Then use a lint roller to remove any extra strings or dust. 

Put a clean white page of cardstock on the pressing surface to protect it. 
To prevent ink blowout on the sock jig, I'm going to wrap the jig with a sheet of butcher paper and use a piece of heat-resistant tape and secure the paper to itself on the back.

Insert a jig into the sock, line the paper up printed side down, over the top of the sock lining up the side of the design with the side of the sock. Use a few pieces of heat-resistant tape to secure the transfer in place. Cover the transfer and jig with a sheet of butcher paper.

If you’re using a large heat press, use these steps to press the full design all at once.

If you’re using a smaller press, beginning on the bottom half of the sock jig, press the design for 40 seconds. 

TIP: Use a pencil to make a line on the butcher paper along the upper edge of the EasyPress so you know where to begin the next press. 

When the time is up, lift the EasyPress straight up and press the next section of the sock. Don’t forget to reset your timer. 

If you’re using a smaller press, it might require more sections. Remove the butcher paper and allow the sock and jig to cool - this is very important as the sock jig will be very hot for a few minutes and can burn your fingers.
Remove the tape and sublimated sheet and discard.



Since there is a design on both the front and the back, flip the jig and just barely roll the printed sock fabric over the edge of the jig until you see a small strip of color on either side of the sock. This helps to blend to the seam on the sock and make it less noticeable.


Place the sock printed side down on a clean sheet of cardstock and tape the design to the back upper part of the sock, the design will cover from the top of the sock to just above the heel. Cover with another sheet of butcher paper and press the back of the sock at the same temp and time as the front.

When the time is up, remove the butcher paper and allow the sock and jig to cool.

STEP 5: SHOW IT OFF!

Here are how the different brands and styles compared.

I found the SilkySocks to be thicker than the white sublimation blank socks, however, they both performed well, holding their color through washing and drying. The SilkySocks also have more cushioning than the other brand.

After pressing and testing the ankle socks I found that the 100% polyester socks from Five Below held color better overall and were softer, however, they seem to be sized smaller.

The Hanes ankle socks I purchased at Dollar Tree were not as soft, but they kept their size and shape throughout washing and drying. The colors did fade slightly, but they are a cotton/polyester blend, so it is expected.