DIY Kitchen Boa Pattern With Custom Designs!

Instructions

NOTE: While the steps for adding printed sublimation designs or Infusible Ink pieces are different, you’ll make the boa the same way for either option.

STEP 1: SEW THE BASIC KITCHEN BOA

NOTE: I prefer not to wash my fabric before sewing if I’m gifting a project, that way the recipient can decide how they want to care for the item. However, you can certainly wash and dry the fabrics if you’d prefer or if you’re nervous about them shrinking. Just make sure they’re ironed smooth after!

TIP: If you're more comfortable sublimating your towel before you sew, simply cut your towel in half and sublimate, then return to Step 1.

For more sewing tips, check out my Sewing ShortCuts ebook!

Turn on your iron and set it for cotton setting, no steam (optional).

Measure the sublimation towel blank. Mine is 24" x 16", but you can use any size you have available.


Fold it and cut it in half so the towel at each end measures 12'' x 16''. I'll consider 16" the width.

If your kitchen towel has a side that is more suitable for adding a design (smoother, whiter) than the other, have that face up. We'll consider that the "nice" side.

TIP: Using fabric with an all-over design is easier since the pattern will look the same on either side of the person’s neck. But if you want to use directional fabric, cut two pieces with the pattern running the long way. Then, clip or pin them right sides together at a short edge so that the pattern goes a different way at either side of where you’ve pinned. Then sew along the seam!

Be sure to remove any selvage edge (the rough section at the edges with company information) from the cotton fabric and measure a rectangle that is 42" x the width of the towel. For my Kitchen Boa I am using 42'' x 16'' of fabric.


Grab one towel piece.

Pin the cut edge (mine is 16") of the towel to the edge of the fabric so that the nice sides are facing each other.

Pin the other towel piece to the other end in the same way.


Sew along the pinned line on both sides on the boa. Any seam allowance width is ok, but I used 5/8" for consistency with a medium-length straight stitch. Remember to remove any pins before you get close to them!

Place the fabric pretty side up and fold it lengthwise so that the pattern side of the fabric is inside. Pin along the seam long.



Using a medium-length straight stitch, sew along the pinned edge from one end of the cotton fabric to the other with a 5/8” seam allowance, taking care to avoid sewing on the towel. Lock your stitches at the beginning and end with a few back and for stitches.

Reach through the tube to grab the other towel and pull it through to turn the fabric right side out.

You can adjust the scarf so the seam is in the center back and press the sides to keep it in place, if you'd like.


Now you've made a simple Kitchen Boa, let's decorate it!

INFUSIBLE INK OPTION

STEP 2. GET AND PREPARE AN INFUSIBLE INK DESIGN

If you don't have a sublimation printer, you can make designs with Infusible Ink using my files in the download folder. You can download the free SVG cut files from my free resource library, it's Design #467. Then, upload the SVGs you want to Design Space. I’ll use the cherries from the fruit file, and I’ll put a sentiment SVG on the other side of the boa.

If you are not sure how to upload an SVG cut file to Cricut Design Space, watch this helpful video training series I made.

Here is what the designs look like on my Canvas.

Let’s start with the fruit, so drag the sentiments to the side.

With the fruit designs selected, click "UnGroup" so you can work with each independently.

If there are designs you don't want to make, select them and click "Delete" above the Layers Panel. I’ll leave the cherries

I’ve sized the designs to fit on the cut sections of towels in the material list. The usable design area is about 5” wide and 6” tall, but measure yours and adjust the sizing if needed. Pull it to the side for now.

Back at the sentiments, use the same steps to ungroup the collection and delete anything you don’t want to make. I’ll leave the “Sweet smell of home” design. It’s also a good size for the towel.

Use the color box at the top to change the sentiment’s color if you’d like. I’ll make it red to match the fabric and cherries.

You're ready to cut!

STEP 3: CUT YOUR DESIGN ON INFUSIBLE INK TRANSFER SHEETS

Make sure the right machine is selected and then click "Make It."

If prompted, select "On Mat" and "12 in x 12 in" then click Continue.

On the Prepare screen, click the "Mirror" toggle below all your mats. You always need to for Infusible Ink transfer sheets! Then click Continue.

Select "Infusible Ink Transfer Sheets" for your material and set the pressure to "More". Make sure your clean Fine-Point Blade is in Clamp B. Then click Continue.

NOTE: I recommend you wash and dry your hands immediately before handling Infusible Ink to avoid transferring any oils to the surface.

Place your first Infusible Ink sheet shiny side down on a green StandardGrip mat.

TIP: Using a brayer will help adhere the Infusible Ink sheet to the mat, ensuring a clean cut.

Load your mat and press your machine's Go button.

Once the mat is finished, unload it, flip it over on your workspace, and gently roll a corner back to release the Infusible Ink.

Complete the process for the rest of the mats.

STEP 4: PREPARE AND TRANSFER YOUR INFUSIBLE INK DESIGNS

If you're using more than one color, the one with more pieces will be called the primary and the other will be the secondary. Here, the red will be the primary and the green the secondary.

I want to combine the designs on one piece of liner to transfer them at the same time, so I’ll trim the excess material with that in mind. Trim the secondary design – the stems – close to the cut lines. But for the primary color, leave a little extra liner where the stems will be closest to the cherry shapes.

For more help on layering Infusible Ink visit my t-shirt tutorial!

To weed Infusible Ink Transfer Sheets, use the “cracking” method. Slightly bend and roll the cut paper until you hear a little cracking sound (which happens as the cuts separate).


Don’t worry if your design lifts off the liner a bit. After you “crack” your cut design, just take away the excess paper and you’ll be left with just your design on the liner.

Then, weed out the parts you don't want to press using a weeding tool and tweezers. 

Place the primary design face down in front of you. Using the Design Space Canvas as a reference, place the secondary color piece’s liner down in the right spot. 

NOTE: Make sure your secondary color pieces are facing the same direction that your main design is on the liner. Since we mirrored our design when cutting, everything will be backwards when applying the design on the correct side.

Since the back of the transfer sheet is sticky, it will hold our attached pieces in place and allow us to move the entire design onto our towel all at once. Make sure none of the clear plastic overlaps the material, trimming any areas as needed.

If you don’t have enough plastic from the main transfer sheet to attach your stems, you can apply them separately to the towel.

Here's what my combined cherry Infusible Ink design looks like on my transfer sheet.

Weed the other design, too. Make sure to remove any bits inside the letters!

Next, prepare your heat press. Use the Cricut Heat Guide to find the right settings for your blank and transfer material. Since I'm using my Autopress and polyester towels, I'll press for 45 seconds at 385℉.

Make sure you have proper ventilation by opening a window or turning on a fan.

The towel areas have already been preheated, but use a lint roller to remove any debris that can get in the way of a good transfer.

Cut a piece of clean white cardstock so it will fit between the layers of towel under the design area and slide it into place to protect the lower layer from extra ink.


Place a clean piece of white cardstock on the pressing area. Then, put the boa ends on top facing up. Don’t let it twist so you don’t put the designs on the back!

Position each design over an end and secure it with heat resistant tape. Make sure you place the design matte side down. This is why we mirrored our designs!

Cover them with a piece of white butcher paper

Heat according to your instructions.

When they're done heating, let the boa cool down before moving it. Moving the towel right away could cause ghosting of the image since the sublimation process does not end immediately.

After they have cooled, you are free to remove the tape and reveal the designs.

SUBLIMATION OPTION

STEP 2: GET OR PREPARE A DESIGN

TIP: To ensure successful sublimation - create a small test shape, a heart for example, and print it along with your other designs. Test press the shape on an inconspicuous area of the towel. Perform this quick test to double check temperature and pressure settings, make any adjustments needed before moving on to the design.

If you're using a sublimation printer, you can combine some of my PNG designs with initials or a name you make in Cricut Design Space!

On a blank Canvas, upload the PNG you want to use. I’ll use the oranges and bees.

During the upload, select “Complex” for the image type, click “Apply & Continue” to skip the background removal, and then pick “Print Then Cut Image” as the upload type. Then Add it to your Canvas.

PNGs load very large, so we will resize it down to fit the space on the towel.

Make sure the lock icon is closed, then change the width to 5”.

Next I will add a name for the other side of the kitchen boa.

Click the “Text” icon and then type your initials or name. I’ll type Carolyn to make a kitchen boa for my mom.

Click the Font menu to find an option you like. I’m using Transcity OTF font, which you can purchase from Font Bundles

Resize the name until it’s about 5” wide or 6” tall so it fits on the towel.

Use the color box at the top to change the name’s color. I’ll make it orange to match the fabric and orange design.
When you're ready and happy with your design, create a bounding box around it and click Flatten.
This will turn it into a Print then Cut image automatically.

*Note we will not be using the "cut" feature of our Print then Cut design, only the "print" portion.

You’re ready to go!

STEP 3: PRINT YOUR DESIGN

Make sure the correct machine is selected, then click "Make It" in the upper right corner.

If prompted, click "On Mat" and "12 in. by 12 in." on the pop up and click "Confirm".

On the Prepare screen, make sure your mat says Print Then Cut and that the Material Size fits your sublimation paper. Mine is 8.5" x 11". Also, click “Mirror” underneath. Click Continue.

On the Make screen, click “send to printer” to print your design. Then toggle off “add bleed” and toggle on “use system dialog” if your printer gives you that option.

The print screen for your printer will appear, but it might be hidden behind Cricut Design Space. Minimize your Cricut window to see the print settings window.

Your window will look different depending on your computer and printer. Make sure your printer is listed in the window. Set the paper and print quality to the best matte options available. Mine are Presentation Paper Matte and High Quality.

Also, make sure that under Layout, "Flip Horizontally" is unchecked since we already mirrored the designs.

Under Color Matching, click ColorSync and select your ICC profile.

Make sure the sublimation paper is in your printer correctly and print!

After your design has printed, set it aside until the ink is completely dry to avoid any smears during the cutting process.

Instead of using the Cricut to cut the design, just use scissors to cut away the black registration marks and separate the designs.

STEP 4: SUBLIMATE YOUR BOA

I'm using an Autopress, but you can also use an EasyPress with a pressing mat. 

Next, prepare your heat press. Use the Cricut Heat Guide to find the right settings for your blank and transfer material. Since I'm using my Autopress and polyester towels, I'll press for 45 seconds at 385℉.

Make sure you have proper ventilation by opening a window or turning on a fan.

The towel areas have already been preheated, but use a lint roller to remove any debris that can get in the way of a good transfer.
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Cut a piece of clean white cardstock so it will fit between the layers of towel under the design area and slide it into place to protect the lower layer from extra ink.

Place a clean piece of white cardstock on the pressing area. Then, put the boa ends on top facing up. Don’t let it twist so you don’t put the designs on the back!


Position each design centered over an end and secure it with heat resistant tape. Make sure you place the designs matte side down. This is why we mirrored our designs!

Cover them with a piece of white butcher paper

Heat according to your instructions.

When they're done heating, let the boa cool down before moving it. Moving the towel right away could cause ghosting of the image since the sublimation process does not end immediately.

After they have cooled, you are free to remove the tape and reveal the designs.

STEP 5: SHOW IT OFF

Here is what my finished Kitchen Boas look like.