Ornate 3D Paper Lantern Craft for a Simple & Decorative DIY!

Instructions

STEP 1: GET MY FREE ORNATE 3D LANTERN DESIGNS

First, download my Ornate 3D Paper Lantern files from my free library – look for Design #794. Alternatively, you can use the Save This Project form near the top of this post and the design link will be emailed to you.

In the SVG folder, you’ll find “score” and “no-score” versions of my butterfly and heart 3D ornate lantern designs. There is also a folder with files sized to fit the Cricut Joy.

The “score” versions require a Scoring Stylus or Single Scoring Wheel to create smooth lines for folding and alignment. If you don’t have a scoring tool, or if you prefer dashed cut lines, you can use the “no-score” versions instead.

There is also a DXF folder with cut files, and a PDF folder with versions you can print and cut by hand.

TIP: If you’re not sure how to upload, go to jennifermaker.com/svgs to learn how to unzip and upload SVG files.

STEP 2: PREPARE AND CUT YOUR ORNATE 3D LANTERN DESIGN

CRICUT DESIGN SPACE

1. In Cricut Design Space, open a blank Canvas.
   NOTE: If you’re new to using Cricut Design Space, go to cricutkickoff.com for my introductory tutorial on Design Space basics.
2. Click “Upload” and then “Upload Image.”
3. Click “Browse” and select the lantern SVG file you want to use.
   NOTE: I’ll demonstrate with the main “score” version of the heart design. 
4. Click “Open,” and then “Continue.”
5. Click “Upload” to add the design to your Canvas.
   TIP: You can click the minus (-) icon in the lower left corner to zoom out and see everything on your canvas.
   
   
6. Click “Save” and give your project a name so you can find it easily.
7. “Ungroup” the design to work with the elements separately. You can drag them apart to see everything as needed.
   NOTE: On your Canvas, you have one large main frame with a large decoration, two secondary frames, two circular base pieces, six decorative panels for the lantern base, and six optional gray diffuser panels.
   
   
8. If you don’t want to cut the diffuser pieces, drag the decorative panels away to expose the gray diffuser layers. Select the diffuser pieces and click the “Trash” icon to delete them.
   NOTE: I’ll keep the diffusers.
9. To change the color of a piece to match the cardstock you’ll cut it from, select the piece in the Layers Panel, click the Color Box, and choose a new color.
   NOTE: I’ll keep everything red.
10. Next, scroll down in the Layers Panel to find six groups of panel pieces, each indicated by a small arrow.
    NOTE: We need to adjust these groups to make sure the score lines are made on the panel tabs correctly.
11. In the Layers Panel, click the arrow to expand the first panel group.
12. Select the top layer with the solid lines and change it to “Score” so the Cricut knows to make the crease lines where your panel tabs will be folded.
    NOTE: The score lines for this project are all red, which is reflected in the Color Box when selecting a line layer.
    
    
    NOTE: If you’re making the “no-score” version, your crease lines are already dashed line cuts and don’t need to be changed to “Score,” so you can skip this step.
13. Click the group layer with the arrow to select both layers in this group, then click “Attach” to keep your score lines with your cut shape.
    
    
14. Repeat Steps 11-13 for the five remaining groups of panels, changing the lines to “Score” and attaching them to their cut shapes.
15. Your project is ready to cut!
    
    

CUTTING

1. Make sure the correct machine is selected in the top right.
2. Click “Make.”
3. On the Prepare screen, make sure the correct Material Size is selected for your materials.
   NOTE: I’m using “8.5 in x 11 in” vellum and “12 in x 12 in” cardstock.
   NOTE: If you see a mat with just lines, one or more of your score layers may not have attached correctly, so click “Cancel” to return to the Canvas and check, then adjust as needed.
   
   
4. Once you are satisfied with your mat layouts, select the first mat again and click “Continue.”
   NOTE: My first mat is the gray vellum, but yours may be different if you’re not using diffusers or have changed some colors.
5. On the Make screen, set the Base Material for your first mat.
   NOTE: My first mat is the gray vellum. I used the “Vellum” setting with “More” Pressure. To cut vellum on the Joy, I used the “Laser Copy Paper” setting with “Default” Pressure.
   
   
6. Place the vellum face up on a blue LightGrip machine mat to cover the design area on the screen.
   
   TIP: You can also use a less sticky green StandardGrip machine mat.
7. Use a brayer to make sure it’s fully adhered.
8. Check that your Premium Fine-Point Blade is clean and in the clamp.
9. Press the flashing “Load/Unload” button to load the prepared mat into your Cricut.
10. Press the flashing middle button to begin cutting.
11. When it has finished cutting, don’t unload the mat right away. Gently lift a corner of the material to make sure the cuts went all the way through. If not, press the middle button again to make a second pass of cuts in the same spots.
12. When the cuts are complete, unload the mat, flip it over onto your work surface, and roll it back to release the vellum.
13. For regular cardstock mats, I used the “Medium Cardstock - 80 lb (216 gsm)” material setting with “More” pressure for cleaner cuts.
    
    
14. If your mat has score lines, follow the screen prompts to select and add your scoring tool. Depending on your machine, click “Edit Tools” and select the Scoring Stylus to load both the scoring tool and the blade at the same time. Or you can select the Scoring Wheel and switch tools when prompted. Click “Apply” to close the “Edit Tools” window.
    
    NOTE: If you’re using the “no-score” version, you won’t see the Scoring Tool prompts since all of your creases are dashed cuts.
15. Place your regular cardstock face up on a green StandardGrip machine mat.
    
    
16. Repeat Steps 7-12 to cut your cardstock mats.
17. Use the spatula to help lift delicate parts, and your weeding tool to poke out small bits of cardstock that may have been left behind.
    TIP: If you have any issues with your cuts, go to jennifermaker.com/cleaner-cuts.
    
    
18. Use a scraper tool to remove the small bits left on your mat after you remove the cut pieces.
19. Lay out all of the pieces face up in organized piles. You should have:
    - One main frame piece with a vertical slit at the bottom of the arch
    - One frame piece with slits at the top and bottom of the arch
    - One frame piece with a slit at the top of the arch
    - Two circular base pieces
    - Six decorative panels
    - Six diffuser panels (if you cut them)
    TIP: Refer to the Design Space screen if you’re not sure about some pieces’ orientation.
    
    

STEP 3: ASSEMBLE YOUR ORNATE 3D LANTERN

1. Take the lantern frame piece with a slit at the top of the outer edge and slot it inside the frame piece with slits at the top and bottom of the edges.
   NOTE: Be careful not to catch the extra elements on the frames.
   
   
2. Lay the two frame pieces flat against each other, then slot them into the main frame piece.
3. Spread out the frame pieces, and stand the constructed frame upright.
   
   
4. Insert the solid top base piece’s six outer slits into the three frame pieces’ top slits.
   
   TIP: Curve the inner frames slightly if needed to fit them into the top base piece’s slits.
5. Insert the bottom base piece’s six outer slits into the three frame pieces’ bottom slits.
   NOTE: The bottom base has a hole in the center for access to the lights in the assembled lantern.
   
   
6. Take the first panel piece and fold back the top and bottom horizontal crease lines.
7. Then fold back the top tab’s two wings (the small side tabs) along the vertical crease lines, and do the same for the bottom tab wings.
   
   NOTE: Make sure your panel’s design is facing the correct direction when you fold the tabs back.
8. If using the vellum diffuser pieces, insert one onto the back of your folded panel, using the wings to hold it in place.
   
   
9. Repeat Steps 6-8 for the five remaining panels and diffusers (if using them).
10. Insert a panel’s top and bottom tabs into the first section of the frame’s top and bottom base slots.
11. After each tab is inserted, unfold the tab’s wings to lock the panel in place.
    
    TIP: The tweezers can help you move the wings and tabs, especially on the small Joy-size lantern.
12. Repeat Steps 10-11 to insert the next four panels.
    NOTE: We will insert the last panel after we put the lights inside.
    
    
13. Test your lights to make sure they work, including any remotes depending on your light source. You may have to remove a battery protector tab first.
14. If you’re using an LED tea light or puck light (not compatible with the Joy-size lantern), place it inside the opening at the bottom of the lantern base.
    
    
15. If you’re using fairy lights, remove any twist ties, and then unwind the lights.
16. Loosely wrap the wire around your fingers to make a coil to evenly distribute the lights.
    TIP: Coil the lights more tightly to fit inside the smaller Joy-size lantern.
    
    
17. Place the coil of lights and the battery pack inside the lantern.
    TIP: Position the battery pack so the power switch is easily accessible via the openings in the bottom of the lantern. Or, to keep the battery pack accessible without having to reach inside the lantern, slide the battery pack through a bottom hole and keep it hidden behind the lantern.
    
    
18. Once your lights are inserted, follow Steps 10-11 to slot in the final panel.
    
    
19. Your ornate 3D paper lantern is ready for display!
    

STEP 4: SHOW IT OFF

You now have a 3D ornate paper lantern sure to impress any guests!