3D Paper Pop Up Easter Egg: Craft An Easy Surprise

Instructions

STEP 1: GET MY FREE PAPER POP UP EASTER EGG DESIGNS

First, download my Paper Pop Up Easter Egg files from my free library – look for Design #806. Alternatively, you can use the Save This Project form near the top of this post and the design link will be emailed to you.

In the SVG folder, you’ll find one version with a “basket” and another with “bunnies” to cut on a Cricut. There’s also a DXF folder with versions for use with other cutting machines.

In the PDF folder, there is a reference assembly guide to help you put the pieces together correctly. I suggest printing it in color and taking notes to reflect your design using the Adobe Acrobat steps from STEP 2 of my Pipe Cleaner Flowers tutorial.

There is also a PDF version of my designs that you can print and cut by hand.

TIP: If you’re not sure how to upload, go to jennifermaker.com/svgs to learn how to unzip and upload SVG files.

STEP 2: PREPARE AND CUT YOUR POP UP EASTER EGG DESIGN

CRICUT DESIGN SPACE

1. In Cricut Design Space, open a blank Canvas.
   NOTE: If you’re new to using Cricut Design Space, go to cricutkickoff.com for my introductory tutorial on Design Space basics.
2. Click “Upload” and then “Upload Image.”
3. Click “Browse.”
4. Select the SVG file from the design folder.
   NOTE: I’ll demonstrate with the “bunnies” design, but these directions work for the “basket” design, too.
5. Click “Open,” and then “Continue.”
6. Click “Upload” to add the design to your Canvas.
   NOTE: On your Canvas, you’ll find 10 teal egg layers, two blue ears, and four scene layers in white and shades of yellow and orange.
   
   
7. Click “Save” and give your project a name.
8. “Ungroup” the design.
9. In the Layers Panel, click the small arrows next to the top 10 grouped layers to see the letter and shape pairs, ending with a pair for "J."
   TIP: These letters will help with assembly and will not be visible once the pieces are all put together.
   NOTE: The last group in the Layers Panel is for the optional ears, which you can delete or hide if you don’t want to use them.
   
   
10. Back at the top of the Layers Panel, select the first layer with just a letter (“A”) in it.
11. In the top menu, change the operation from “Basic Cut” to “Pen.”
    
    
12. You can use the color swatch to set the pen or marker type and color.
    NOTE: I will use a Fine Point (0.4mm) Black pen, which is the default setting.
    TIP: If you want the written labels to be less visible on the cut pieces, use a pen similar in color to the cardstock you’re using for the egg structure.
    
    
13. Click the grouped layer with an arrow next to it to select the letter and cut shape together.
14. Click “Attach” to keep the letter and cut shape together.
    
    
    
15. Repeat Steps 10-14 to adjust and “Attach” the remaining groups for pieces B - J.
    
    
16. If you’re making an egg using different colors, recolor the BOTTOM layer inside each attached letter group by first expanding each group using the small arrow. Then, use the Color Box in the top menu to change the color for the “Basic Cut” layer, not the "Pen/Draw" layer.
    NOTE: I’ll use rainbow colors to match my Assembly Diagram so the steps are easier to follow. For each layer, make sure what you see on your Canvas matches the color for the letter’s line on the Assembly Diagram. I’ll make A & B red, C & G orange, D & H yellow, E & I green, then leave F & J blue. I’ll leave the ears and scene layer colors as is.
    
    
17. Your project is ready to cut!
    
    

CUTTING

1. Make sure the correct machine is selected in the top right.
2. Click “Make.”
3. On the “Prepare” screen, make sure the correct “Material Size” is selected for your materials.
   NOTE: I’ll choose “12 in x 12 in” for all of my mats.
   
   
4. Make sure Mat 1 is selected so it loads first on the next screen, and click “Continue.”
5. On the “Make” screen, set the “Base Material” for your first mat.
   NOTE: Mine has solid white cardstock. I used the “Medium Cardstock - 80 lb (216 gsm)” material setting with “More” pressure (for a cleaner cut) for my 65 lb. and 80 lb. cardstock pieces.
   
   
6. Place your cardstock face up on a green StandardGrip machine mat.
   
   TIP: If you want the textured side of the 80 lb. cardstock from my materials list facing the front of the assembled egg, place the cardstock face down on the mat when cutting.
7. Use a brayer to make sure it’s fully adhered.
8. Check that your Premium Fine-Point Blade is clean and in the clamp.
9. When you get to a mat that includes Pen lines, follow the screen prompts to select and add your pen in the clamp indicated.
   TIP: Remove the pen’s cap (put it on the back so you don’t lose it) and test it on scrap paper to make sure it flows well first.
10. Press the flashing “Load/Unload” button to load the prepared mat into your Cricut.
11. Press the flashing middle button to begin cutting.
12. When it has finished cutting, don’t unload the mat right away. Gently lift a corner of the material to make sure the cuts went all the way through. If not, press the middle button again to make a second pass of cuts in the same spots.
13. When the cuts are complete, unload the mat, flip it over onto your work surface, and roll it back to release the cardstock.
    TIP: If you have any issues with your cuts, go to jennifermaker.com/cleaner-cuts.
14. Small design elements can stick to the mat, so use the spatula to help lift delicate parts, and use your weeding tool to poke out small bits of cardstock that may have been left behind.
    
    
15. Use a scraper tool to clean off the small bits left on your mat after you remove the cut pieces.
16. Cut the rest of your mats using the correct settings and materials following Steps 5-15.
17. Lay out all of the pieces face up to make sure you have them all, using your Canvas and Assembly Diagram for reference.
    
    

STEP 3: ASSEMBLE YOUR PAPER POP UP EASTER EGG’S SHELL

1. Before you begin, look at your printed Assembly Diagram and cut pieces to make sure you’re ready:
   a. Your pieces should be lettered to match your printed Assembly Diagram.
   NOTE: The rainbow colors are used to match the Assembly Diagram for visual reference in the tutorial, but the letters on the pieces can be used to track assembly even if you choose different colors for the outer layers.
   b. The front of the egg is the side where the “cut-off” portions of D, F, H, and J will face. The front will face away from you for most of the assembly.
   c. The shapes are all different. Some pieces have slits on the inside, while others have slits on the outside. Some slits are wider because more than one piece will intersect at that point.
   d. The "bumps" on the cut pieces will help us place the inner scene layers once the outside shell is assembled.
   e. As you assemble, keep the letters facing you.
2. Place Pieces C, D, E, and F in a face-up stack so you can pick them up in the correct order for the back left half of your egg.
   NOTE: These pieces all have slits on the outside.
3. Place Pieces G, H, I, and J in a face-up stack so you can pick them up in the correct order for the back right half of your egg.
   NOTE: These pieces all have slits on the inside.
   
   
4. Keep Pieces A and B face up on their own because we’ll start the assembly with them.
5. Slot A (red) and B (red) together using their middle slits, joining them at the top and bottom to form an "X."
   TIP: Confirm the two “bumps” align at the top and bottom where A and B intersect.
   
   
6. Take C (orange) and insert its center slit into B’s second slit from the middle on the right side. Insert the top slit first, then the bottom.
   
   
7. Take D (yellow) and, with the cut-off end facing the front of the egg, match its slit with a bump with the matching bump on B at the top, then the bottom.
   
   
8. Take E (green) and use its middle slit to join it to B using the last available slit on that side. Insert the top slit first, and then the bottom.
   
   
9. Take F (blue) and slot its slit closest to the front of the egg into the last remaining slit on B. Insert the top slit first, and then the bottom.
   
   
10. Check that your pieces are seated well and align with the Assembly Guide to this point.
    TIP: It’s easier to fix mistakes or issues now instead of trying later once more layers are in place.
    
    
11. Take G (orange) and insert its center slit into the bumped slit on A (top first and then bottom).
    TIP: Remember to make sure the letter labels are all facing you as you assemble.
    
    
12. Continue slotting G into the next closest pieces (C and D) one slit at a time, filling every slit as you go.
    TIP: This layer can be challenging, so take your time and be patient. If anything pops out, fix it immediately before moving on.
13. Continue slotting G into the next pieces (E and F) one slit at a time, filling every slit as you go.
    TIP: Working from the middle outward makes this easier.
    
    
14. Before adding more pieces, check that your assembled pieces look like a clean grid from the top and bottom. Also, test that you can gently flatten it in both directions. If you can’t flatten it, that means a slit is probably not fully inserted.
    
    
15. With the layers back open in their grid shape, slot H (yellow) across its matching row, starting with A’s top slits, then D, C, and E’s top slits.
    
    
16. Flip the assembly upside down so you can more easily see the bottom slits, then secure H into all of its corresponding bottom slits on A, D, C, and E.
    
    
17. Flip the assembly back up so the letters are at the bottom and facing you, then check that you can still flatten everything in both directions.
18. Take I (green) and slot its top middle slit into A, then the other top slits into C, D, E, and F.
    NOTE: This layer might look like it’s incorrect until everything is perfectly positioned, so just take your time and fix anything that pops out before moving on to the next step.
    
    
19. Flip the assembly upside down and finish slotting I into the bottom intersecting slits on A, C, D, E, and F.
    
    
20. Flip the assembly back up so the letters are at the bottom and facing you, then check that you can still flatten everything in both directions.
21. Take J (blue) and slot its top middle slit into C, then the other top slits into the remaining open slits on A and E.
    NOTE: Bend J gently (especially around tighter areas) to avoid tearing.
    
    
22. Slot J into the last remaining intersections at the bottom.
    
    
23. Re-check your finished egg shell by flattening it in both directions and making sure it has a clean grid shape when viewing it from the top and bottom.
    
    

STEP 4: INSERT THE SCENE LAYERS

1. Place the scene layers face up in order from left to right, with the solid piece on the very right.
   
   
2. Turn the assembled egg so the front faces you and make sure you can reach the three sets of "bumps" inside.
   TIP: You can rotate your printed Assembly Diagram upside down so the grid’s circles match the bumps’ locations.
   NOTE: Take off any jewelry before working inside the egg, as it can catch on the paper and tear delicate sections.
   
   
3. Hold the solid back scene layer in one hand so the tabs are at the top and bottom and to the right of center.
4. From the outside of the egg, pinch on either side of the furthest back bump at the top with your other hand.
   TIP: If you’re using color-coded layers like me, you’ll pinch A (red) and G (orange).
   
   
5. Slide the back layer’s top tab in so the slit crosses the "X" horizontally and seats fully.
   
   
6. Carefully flip the project and gently curve the middle of the back scene layer toward yourself so the loose tab can go inside the grid.
   
   
7. Find the matching bump (it will be furthest to the left in this view) and pinch it on either side from the outside of the egg.
8. Slide the back layer’s bottom tab in so the slit crosses the "X" horizontally and seats fully.
   
   
9. Flatten and open the assembly so far to confirm the layer is seated correctly.
10. With the assembled egg right side up, repeat Steps 3-9 to insert the second layer (mine has rainbow cutouts) into the same spot inside the egg. Its tabs are in the same spots, so it stacks with the back layer.
    NOTE: The second layer goes in the same spots as the first without a gap between them.
    
    
11. Hold the next scene layer in one hand so the tabs are at the top and bottom in the center.
12. From the outside of the egg, pinch on either side of the middle bump at the top with your other hand.
    TIP: If you’re using color-coded layers like me, you’ll pinch A (red) and B (red).
13. Slide the layer’s top tab in so the slit crosses the "X" horizontally and seats fully.
    
    
14. Carefully flip the project and gently curve the middle of the scene layer toward yourself so the loose tab can go inside the grid.
15. Find the matching center bump on the egg and pinch it from the outside.
16. Slide the layer’s bottom tab in so the slit crosses the "X" horizontally and seats fully.
17. Flatten and open the assembly so far to confirm the layer is seated correctly.
18. Hold the front scene layer in one hand so the tabs are at the top and bottom and to the right of center.
19. From the outside of the egg, pinch on either side of the last bump at the top with your other hand.
    TIP: If you’re using color-coded layers like me, you’ll pinch D (yellow) and B (red).
20. Slide the layer’s top tab in so the slit crosses the "X" horizontally and seats fully.
    
    
21. Carefully flip the project and gently curve the middle of the scene layer toward yourself so the loose tab can go inside the grid.
22. Find the matching last bump on the egg and pinch it from the outside.
23. Slide the front layer’s bottom tab in so the slit crosses the "X" horizontally and seats fully.
    
    
24. Flatten and open the assembly to confirm the layer seated correctly.
    

STEP 5: ADD THE EARS (OPTIONAL)

1. Choose two “X” positions near the top of the egg that look balanced.
   TIP: On either side of the center “X” usually looks best.
2. Slide each ear piece tab onto its chosen “X” intersection so it crosses straight through horizontally.
   
   
3. If needed, adjust the ears until they sit evenly.
   

STEP 6: SHOW IT OFF

Your 3D Paper Pop-Up Easter Egg with a bunny scene inside is done and ready for display!