How To Make A Shadow Box With Floating Pieces

Instructions

STEP 1: GET MY FREE MAKER FARM SHADOW BOX DESIGNS

First, download my Maker Farm Shadow Box files from my free library – look for Design #700. Alternatively, you can use the Save This Project form near the top of this post and the design link will be emailed to you.

In the SVG folder, you’ll find “fall,” “spring,” “summer,” and “winter” versions of my Maker Farm design to cut on a cutting machine. There is also a DXF folder with cut files, and a PDF folder with versions you can print and cut by hand.

Upload the SVG file you need to Design Space to get started.

TIP: If you’re not sure how to upload, go to jennifermaker.com/svgs to learn how to unzip and upload SVG files.

STEP 2: PREPARE AND CUT YOUR MAKER FARM DESIGN

CRICUT DESIGN SPACE

1. In Cricut Design Space, open a blank Canvas.
   NOTE: If you’re new to using Cricut Design Space, go to cricutkickoff.com for my introductory tutorial on Design Space basics.
2. Click “Upload” and then “Upload Image.”
3. Click “Browse.”
4. Select the SVG file of your choice.
   NOTE: I’ll pick the “summer” version.
5. Click “Open” and then “Continue.”
6. Click “Upload” to add the design to your Canvas.
7. Click the “Minus (-)” icon in the lower left corner to zoom out and see everything on your canvas.
   NOTE: There are 18 total layers stacked on your Canvas, including 14 single-shape cardstock layers, three vinyl layers with registration marks in all four corners, and one gray acetate layer.
   NOTE: The “winter” design has an additional acetate layer.
   
   
8. Click “Save” and give your project a name.
9. Your project is designed to fit the 10” x 10” shadow box in the materials list, but most shadow box display areas are smaller than the advertised dimensions. So use a tape measure or ruler to measure the inside of your shadow box.
   
   
10. If you need to resize the design to fit, select all of the layers and make sure the “Lock” icon is closed to maintain the design’s proportions.
11. Enter the correct height measurement in the “Height (H)” field, and the “Width (W)” will automatically adjust to match it.
    NOTE: Make sure to size your design's layers about 1/8" smaller than your measured dimensions to give your assembled layers enough space in the box. I don’t recommend resizing for a smaller shadow box, as some of the pieces are very intricate and won’t cut well at a smaller size.
    
    
12. And now your layers are ready to cut!
    

CUTTING

1. Make sure the correct machine is selected in the top right.
2. Click “Make.”
3. On the Prepare screen, make sure the correct Material Size is selected for your materials.
   NOTE: I’ll keep the “12 in x 12 in” size for all my mats, including my vinyl (which I’ll trim down to size).
4. Once you are satisfied with your mat layouts, select the first mat again and click “Continue.”
5. On the Make screen, set the Base Material for your first mat. Mine is cardstock. For my cardstock mats, I’m using the “Medium Cardstock - 80 lb (216 gsm)” setting with “More” pressure.
   TIP: Changing the Pressure to “More” results in a cleaner cut.
   
   
6. Place your cardstock face up on a green StandardGrip machine mat.
   
   
7. Use a brayer to make sure it’s fully adhered.
8. Check that your Premium Fine-Point Blade is clean and in the clamp.
9. Press the flashing “Load/Unload” button to load the prepared mat into your Cricut.
10. Press the flashing middle button to begin cutting.
11. When it has finished cutting, don’t unload the mat right away. Gently lift a corner of the material to make sure the cuts went all the way through the material. If not, press the middle button again to make a second pass of cuts in the same spots.
    TIP: If you have any issues with your cuts, go to jennifermaker.com/cleaner-cuts.
12. When the cuts are complete, unload the mat, flip it over onto your work surface, and roll it back to release the cardstock.
    TIP: Use the spatula to help lift delicate parts, and the weeding tool to poke out small bits of cardstock that are still attached to your cut pieces.
    
    
13. Use a scraper tool to remove the small bits of cardstock left on your mat after you remove the cut pieces.
14. For your acetate mat, change your material settings in Design Space to “Acetate” with “More” pressure.
    
    
15. Take the protective film off one side of the acetate only.
16. Place the acetate’s side with the protective film down on a green StandardGrip machine mat to keep adhesive and scratches from damaging the material.
    
    
17. Repeat Steps 7-12 to cut your acetate.
18. For your vinyl mats, change your material settings to “Premium Vinyl - Permanent Glossy” with “More” pressure.
    
    
19. You can use a paper trimmer or scissors to trim your vinyl to cover the design area shown on the screen plus an inch or so of buffer.
    TIP: You can save smaller pieces of vinyl for other projects.
20. Place your vinyl matte-side-up (if you're using Cricut Value Vinyl like me) on a green StandardGrip machine mat so it covers the design area on your screen.
    
    
21. Repeat Steps 7-11 to cut your vinyl.
    NOTE: For vinyl, cuts should go all the way through the material, but not the carrier sheet.
22. When the cuts are complete, keep the vinyl on your mat and use your weeding tool to carefully peel away the extra background vinyl.
    TIP: It can be easier to weed vinyl, especially small, detailed designs, while it is still adhered to the machine mat.
    
    
23. Poke your weeding tool into small sections of the vinyl you want to remove, like the insides of elements. Gently lift the tool away from the design.
    TIP: Make sure you do not pull up any pieces you want to keep! If they come up, gently pat them back in place and try again. Refer back to the Design Space screen if you’re not sure which pieces to remove.
24. Continue to weed until all that is left is the vinyl for your design. Then flip the mat over onto your work surface and roll it back to release the vinyl with its carrier sheet.
    
    
25. Lay out all of the pieces face up in organized piles. Keep your vinyl layers with your acetate, and keep your cardstock layers stacked in order.
    TIP: Refer to the PDF file that matches your design if you’re not sure about some layers’ order or orientation.
    
    

STEP 3: ASSEMBLE YOUR MAKER FARM SHADOW BOX

LAYER YOUR VINYL ONTO YOUR ACETATE

1. Lay your design’s bottom-most vinyl decal face up on your work surface.
   NOTE: I’ll start with the sunflower petals layer on the bottom to make sure the centers are layered on top of them.
2. Cut a piece of StandardGrip transfer tape just larger than the decal.
   NOTE: Make sure the tape covers all four registration marks.
   
   
3. Remove the backing from the transfer tape.
4. Press your transfer tape onto a lint-free cloth and peel it back up a few times to make it less sticky.
   NOTE: If the transfer tape is too sticky, it will be difficult to remove from the acetate layer.
5. Hold your transfer tape in the shape of a “taco,” sticky side down, then center the bottom of the “taco” onto the middle of the decal, making sure the tape covers the registration marks in all four corners.
   
   
6. Smooth the transfer tape over the decal from the center outward and burnish it down using the Scraper Tool.
   
   
7. Flip your vinyl over and gently peel away the backing.
8. Cut a piece of parchment paper that is wide enough to cover the vinyl design without covering the registration marks in the corners, and smooth it down on top of the vinyl’s decal and transfer tape.
   
   
9. If any pieces of vinyl are still exposed, use a scrap piece of parchment paper to cover them and prevent them from sticking before the design is aligned.
10. Lay the acetate protected-side-down on your work surface to prevent damaging the material while layering on the vinyl.
11. Use isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth to clean your acetate.
12. Flip over your transfer tape and parchment paper, and line up the vinyl corner registration marks with the corners of your acetate sheet.
    NOTE: The registration marks are placed so that the acetate sheet fits perfectly inside.
13. Once they’re lined up, press the top of the transfer tape onto the top of the acetate sheet.
    
    
14. Take your Scraper Tool in one hand and gently burnish the transfer tape onto the acetate sheet while carefully peeling away the parchment paper with your other hand.
    TIP: Rotating the layers to one side can make this easier.
    
    
15. When you get to the vinyl, use your Scraper Tool to burnish it onto the acetate layer.
    
    
16. Slowly and carefully peel away the transfer tape, leaving the vinyl design on the acetate.
    
    
17. If there are any air bubbles between your vinyl and acetate, use your finger to push outward and flatten the vinyl.
18. Repeat Steps 5-17 to apply the remaining layers of vinyl to your acetate sheet.
    TIP: You can use the same piece of transfer tape for all your vinyl layers.
    
    
19. Once your layers have all been applied, peel the protective layer from the bottom side of the acetate.
20. Spray isopropyl alcohol onto a lint-free cloth and wipe away any smudges or fingerprints on both sides of the acetate sheet.
    NOTE: Avoid getting alcohol on the vinyl.

ADD THE LAYERS TO YOUR SHADOW BOX

1. Stack your layers face up in the order they’ll fit in the frame. Most of the layers are numbered in the bottom right corner to help you order them correctly.
   NOTE: Layer 1 (the top layer of cardstock with a single circle cutout), Layer 3 (the vinyl on acetate layer), and Layer 15 (the bottom layer of solid cardstock) are unmarked.
2. Grab your shadow box frame. Remove the backing and inner spacer piece, then set them aside.
3. Take Layer 1, flip it over, and put it face down inside the shadow box frame.
4. Cut and place foam tape strips of your desired length on the back of Layer 1. Make sure the strips are spaced around the edge of the paper to ensure even coverage, and avoid getting tape in the cutout areas.
   
   
5. Peel the backing from each piece of foam tape.
6. Flip Layer 2 over and gently lower it face down into the shadow box, directly above Layer 1.
   NOTE: Use the sides of the shadow box to help with alignment.
7. Once you’re sure the second layer is centered properly, press down around the edges to adhere it to the foam tape underneath.
   
   
8. Repeat Steps 4-7 to add Layers 3 through 8 to your shadow box, placing your foam tape in the same position on the back of each layer to make sure the papers are adequately spaced and supported.
   
   
   
9. Set the shadow box and assembled layers aside.
10. Place Layer 9 face down on your work surface.
11. Add craft glue in a line around the outside edge of the cardstock, around the cutout area, and on the small, detailed areas.
    TIP: Work quickly but carefully to avoid letting the glue dry before applying the next layer.
    
    
12. Flip Layer 10 over and align it directly on top of Layer 9.
    NOTE: Use the cardstock’s edges and corners for alignment.
13. Flip the layers face up to make sure Layer 10’s areas of white trim around the farm, windows, and doors are visible, then press down and smooth to adhere.
    
    
14. Gently wipe away any excess glue with a paper towel or your finger.
15. Repeat Steps 10-14 to add Layers 11 and 12, making sure each layer’s details are visible before pressing down to adhere.
    
    
16. Take the shadow box with layers inside and remove the backing from the foam tape on Layer 8.
17. Flip glued Layers 9-12 face down and gently lower them into the shadow box, directly above Layer 8.
    
    
18. Repeat Steps 4-7 to add Layers 13-15 to your shadow box, making sure to add foam tape along the edges and across large areas of cardstock that need additional support.
    
    
19. Once Layer 15 is in place, add a few longer, equally spaced foam strips on its back.
20. Peel the backing from each piece of foam tape, then add an additional piece of tape directly on top of each one to create double stacks that will fill extra space in the shadow box. Leave the backing in place on the second layer of strips.
    
    
21. Place the shadow box’s backing board on top of Layer 15, with the hanger positioned at the top. Press down the metal tabs on all four sides to secure the backing board.
    
    
22. Flip your project over to view the assembled layers from the front.
    

STEP 4: SHOW IT OFF

You now have your very own Maker Farm Shadow Box in the season of your choice!