How To Make A No-Sew Peekaboo Sublimation Shirt

Instructions

STEP 1: GET MY FREE PEEKABOO DESIGNS

First, download my Peekaboo Sublimation Shirt designs from my free library -- look for Design #648. Alternatively, you can use the Save This Project form near the top of this post and the design link will be emailed to you.

There are four designs in the folder: a cat, a ghost, a jack-o-lantern, and a skeleton.

I used an AI art generator to create the designs, then made them even more fantastic with image editing software. If you want to learn more about the process, check out my workshop on creating and using AI-generated art in your crafts.


TIP: If you’re not sure how to upload, go to jennifermaker.com/svgs because the steps are similar with Google Docs and PNGs.

STEP 2: PREPARE AND PRINT YOUR DESIGN

1. Open Google Docs in the Google Chrome web browser on your computer.
   NOTE: You will need a free Google account to use the free Google Docs software.
   TIP: You can also download and open the Google Docs app, but you won’t be able to install or access any printer profiles from a mobile device, and you’ll also have limited access to features, so I do not recommend it on a mobile device.
2. Click “Blank document” at the top left to open a new document.
   
3. Go to the File menu and select “Page setup.”
4. Check the box next to “Portrait.”
5. Change your margins to “0” to use more of the page.
6. Change your Paper Size to match your sublimation paper size. I’m using 8.5” x 14” or legal size paper.
   
7. Click “OK” to apply the settings.
8. Go to the Insert menu, select “Image,” and select “Upload from Computer.”
9. Select the sublimation design you want to use.
   NOTE: I’ll demonstrate with the cat design.
   
   TIP: You’ll most likely find it in your Downloads folder.
10. Click “Open.”
11. Click the area that says “Untitled document” at the top and type a name for the file.
12. To resize the design, click “Image Options” at the top of the canvas.
    NOTE: You can also open the menu by going to “Format,” “Image,” and “Image Options.”
    
13. Select “Size & Rotation.”
14. Keep the “Lock aspect ratio” box checked to maintain the design’s proportions.
15. Change the “Width” field to the design area you want to create. I’ll make my design 8” wide.
    
    NOTE: If you’re making a different size shirt, you can adjust the panel and design size to fit the look you want as long as it will fit your printer paper. Keep in mind, the cuts should be 1-2” smaller than the design so the panel’s edges aren’t visible.
16. The “Height” field will automatically adjust proportionately.
17. Click the image and select the “Wrap text” icon from the menu that appears below it.
    
    NOTE: This setting lets you move the design anywhere on the page.
18. Click and drag the image to the center of your page, as that ensures it won’t get cut off at the edges.
    
19. Go to the File menu and choose “Print.”
20. Select your sublimation printer under “Destination.”
21. Click the arrow beside “More Settings” to select “Print Using System Dialog.”
    
22. Your print menu may look different - just make sure the sublimation printer is selected, that you “flip horizontally,” and select the highest quality matte paper setting.
    
23. Load sublimation paper correctly into your sublimation printer.
    NOTE: Check the packaging for information on how to load the paper.
24. Click “Print.”
25. Allow the print to dry before handling it, as the ink can smear.
    
    NOTE: The printed design will appear lighter before pressing.
26. Your project is ready to press!
    
    
    

STEP 3: PREPARE AND PRESS THE PEEKABOO PANEL AND SHIRT

IMPORTANT: Good ventilation is important any time you use sublimation. Have your windows open and a fan going to improve ventilation.

1. Place your white polyester fabric on a self-healing mat.
2. Put the print on top, then cut the fabric about an inch larger on each side.
   NOTE: I used my handheld rotary cutter and kept my other hand safely out of the way. Check the safety features on your tools, especially around the sharp blade. If yours has a blade guard like mine, re-protect the blade as soon as you’re done with the tool. S
3. Set your heat press to the correct temperature and time. According to my Sublimation Cookbook, the EasyPress 2 needs to be set at 385 ℉ (196℃) to preheat polyester fabric for 10 seconds.
   
4. Place your pressing mat on your work surface with protective white cardstock on top.
5. Lint roll the polyester panel all over to remove dust or debris.
6. Place the panel on the protected pressing mat.
7. Lightly press the panel all over for 10 seconds to remove excess moisture from the material, and smooth out any extra wrinkles.
   
8. Once the panel is cool, center the printed design face down on top of it.
9. Use heat-resistant tape on all four sides to secure the design to the fabric, making sure it’s smooth.
   
10. Place a piece of butcher paper on top of the panel and taped design.
11. Set the EasyPress to 385℉ (196℃) and the timer to 40 seconds.
12. Press the design with light pressure.
    NOTE: If your design is larger than the pressing area, press it in two or more sections with little overlap.
    
13. After pressing, allow the design to sit for approximately 10 seconds to help prevent ghosting.
14. Remove the butcher paper, tape, and transfer sheet to reveal the panel.
    NOTE: Keep the used design sheet nearby because we’ll use it as a template in a later step.
    
15. While your press is still set to 385℉ (196℃), set it for 10 seconds to preheat the T-shirt.
16. Fold your shirt in half vertically and press it for 10 seconds along the crease. When you open it up, you have a center line and smooth fabric on either side. Set it aside for now.
    
17. With the fabric panel design-side-up on your self-healing mat, add permanent fabric tape right outside the ink on all four edges, leaving the backer papers in place.
    
    TIP: This fabric tape is very sticky, so don’t let it stick where you don’t want it! It’s ok if the corners overlap.
18. Safely cut along the tape’s outer edges using your handheld rotary cutter.
    TIP: The tape’s adhesive will help keep the edges from fraying, but you can trim any excess threads with scissors.
    
    
    
    

STEP 4: CUT YOUR PEEKABOO SHIRT

1. Place the used design paper face up on your self-healing mat so we can make it into a cutting template.
   NOTE: The design will be faded, but you should still be able to see enough to find the edges.
2. Add 1” painter’s tape to the edges overlapping the design to make a guide 1” in from the four edges.
   
3. Bring the template’s long edges together to make a vertical crease down the middle.
4. Place the T-shirt face up on your work surface with the vertical crease visible.
5. Put the template on the shirt, centering the design by matching up the top creases.
   TIP: You can also use my T-shirt Guide Rulers to help with design placement.
6. Use a ruler to find 3” down from the collar’s seam, then align the lower edge of the template’s top tape with that mark.
   
7. Align the bottom crease on the template with the vertical line on the shirt.
8. Use painter’s tape to hold the template in place on the shirt.
9. Without shifting the design, slide a self-healing mat larger than the design area inside the shirt to protect the back of the shirt from the cuts.
10. Adjust the shirt around the cutting mat so the layers are smooth, seams match, and the design is centered correctly.
    
11. Safely holding the shirt and template in place, make cuts across the inside of the template, avoiding the taped-off sections.
    
    TIP: To get a more “ripped” look, you can angle your cuts, randomize their widths, or make some shorter than the others. Just don’t make them too close together unless you’re ok with a section possibly tearing. I like the look of thinner sections near the middle and stopping my cuts about 1.5” from the bottom to avoid showing the tape if the fabric sags!
12. Remove the template and tape to see your slices!
    
    TIP: If your blade didn’t go all the way through on any slices, you can either leave the pieces connected or cut them with scissors.
13. Remove the inside mat.
14. Turn the shirt inside out with the front face up.
15. Cutting the slits can create lint and loose threads, so lint roll all over the cuts and surrounding fabric very well so they don’t interfere with the fabric tape.
    
16. Place the prepared design face down over the cuts to make sure the decorated area is inside them. The design’s taped edges should be on the uncut shirt sections.
    
    TIP: The panel doesn’t have to be perfectly straight, but make sure the top is oriented correctly.
17. Once the panel is positioned, place your ruler on the design near the top edge to hold it in place, then carefully lift the taped section and remove the backing paper without letting the taped panel touch the shirt.
    
18. Make sure the shirt is smooth, then lay the taped panel down and press it in place from the center outward to prevent any wrinkles.
    
    TIP: Smooth any wrinkles before pressing the tape in place.
19. Once the top is secure, carefully smooth the shirt and panel down toward the bottom edge.
20. Use Steps 16-18 to secure the bottom and then the side edges.
21. Once all four edges are in place, use your brayer to really smooth the tape into place.
    
22. Turn the shirt right-side-out and look at the design through the cut area.
23. Adjust the slits and fabric strips as needed to create the look you want by pulling the edges to make them thinner, snipping small connections.
    
24. If you find any wrinkles in the taped area, gently reach between the panel and shirt to grasp the top layer near the wrinkle.
25. Hold the panel and shirt layer outside the tape steady with your other hand.
    
26. Gently stretch the T-shirt layer in toward the design to help smooth out the wrinkle.
    
    
    
    

STEP 5: SHOW IT OFF!

Here is what my finished peekaboo sublimation shirt looks like!