Alcohol Ink Paper Stained Glass Window … No Soldering!

Instructions

STEP 1: GET MY FREE ALCOHOL INK PAPER STAINED GLASS DESIGN FILES

First, download my Alcohol Ink Paper Stained Glass designs from my free library – look for Design #796. Alternatively, you can use the Save This Project form near the top of this post and the design link will be emailed to you.

TIP: If you’re not sure how to upload, go to jennifermaker.com/svgs to learn how to unzip and upload SVG files.

Inside the SVG folder, you’ll see three stained glass animal designs: a Bird, a Fox, and a Hedgehog.

For this tutorial, I’ll show you how to make the Fox SVG using my Cricut Maker 4, but you can follow the same steps to make the other two designs on any Cricut cutting machine, including the Cricut Joy.

STEP 2: PREPARE & CUT YOUR ALCOHOL INK PAPER STAINED GLASS DESIGN

CRICUT DESIGN SPACE

1. In Cricut Design Space on a blank Canvas, click “Upload.”
2. Click “Upload Image.”
3. Click “Browse.”
4. Find and select the SVG of your choice from the main SVG folder.
   NOTE: I’ll demonstrate with the Fox design.
5. Click “Open” and then “Continue.”
6. Click “Upload” to add the design to your Canvas.
   
   
   
   
7. Click “Save” and give your project a name.
8. If you’d like to resize the layers, select the entire design and make sure the Lock icon is closed to maintain proportions. Then click and drag the corner handles to resize it.
   TIP: The original designs will fit on the larger machines and a Cricut Joy Xtra. If you’re using a Cricut Joy, resize your design to 4.25” W by 4.661” H to fit on a standard mat.
   NOTE: I’ll keep my design full size.
   
   
9. “Ungroup” the design and spread out the pieces so we can see how they go together.
   NOTE: Each design has 11 layers.
10. The white, yellow, and orange layers show the colors I used by inking alcohol ink paper. The green middle layer is the base and will be visible from both sides. I recommend using green cardstock for it. The two black layers will be cut from permanent vinyl, which we’ll apply to acetate. The two gray layers will be cut from acetate.
    
    TIP: I recommend cutting your alcohol ink paper first and then applying the ink to it because it uses less ink to cover the cut paper. Plus, you will be able to better ink specific areas of the design once the paper is shaped. If you’d like to change the color of a layer to more closely match your material or design idea, select it and use the Color Box at the top to pick a new color.
    
    NOTE: I recommend keeping each front and back pair of layers matching in color so the stained glass design looks the same from both sides.
    TIP: Avoid changing any of your layers’ colors to black, so your Cricut doesn’t apply the black vinyl’s cut settings to those layers too.
11. Your design is ready to cut!
    

CUTTING & WEEDING

1. At the top right, select the machine that you’ll use to cut your project, then click “Make.”
   NOTE: If prompted, click "On Mat," choose your mat size, and click “Confirm.”
2. On the “Prepare” screen, make sure the correct “Material Size” is selected for each of your mats.
   NOTE: I used 8.3” x 11.7” alcohol ink paper for the design layer pair mats, 12” x 12” acetate for the gray mats, 12” x 12” for the green cardstock base mat, and 12” x 12” for the vinyl mats.
   
   
3. Click the first mat so it loads first on the next screen, then click “Continue.”
4. On the “Make” screen, choose the “Base Material” settings that correspond to each of your mats. I used the following settings:
   For alcohol ink paper: “Photo Paper” setting with “More” Pressure
   
   
   For acetate: “Acetate” setting with “More” Pressure
   
   
   For permanent adhesive Value vinyl: “Value Vinyl” setting with “More” Pressure
   
   
   For 65 lb. cardstock: “Medium Cardstock - 80 lb (216 gsm)” setting with “More” Pressure
   
   
5. My first mat is one of the white alcohol ink layers. Place the alcohol ink paper on a green StandardGrip machine mat, in the orientation shown on your screen.
   NOTE: You’ll see different colored mats on the Prepare screen because the layers are different colors in the design. Those colors are just for organizing the layers and adding ink later. All of these layers are cut from the same white alcohol ink paper, so place white alcohol ink paper on the white, yellow, and orange layers.
   
   
6. Use a clean brayer to adhere it well.
7. Check that your Fine-Point Blade is clean and in the clamp.
8. Press the flashing “Load/Unload” button to load the prepared mat into your Cricut.
9. Press the flashing middle button to begin cutting.
10. When it has finished cutting, don’t unload the mat right away. Gently lift a corner of the material to make sure the cuts went all the way through. If not, press the middle button again to make a second pass of cuts in the same spots.
    
    
11. When the cuts are complete, unload the mat, flip it over onto your work surface, and roll it back to release the material.
    TIP: Use a Spatula Tool to help lift extra delicate areas. If you have any issues with your cuts, go to jennifermaker.com/cleaner-cuts.
12. Cut the rest of your alcohol ink paper layers and lay them face up on your work surface.
13. When you get to an acetate mat, remove the protective film from one side of the material. Leave the other side protected for now.
    
    
14. Place the acetate onto a green StandardGrip machine mat, with the unprotected side facing up.
    
    
15. Using the cut settings in Step 4, cut each sheet of acetate, repeating the same process for each sheet.
16. Using the cut settings in Step 4, cut each sheet of vinyl, repeating the same process.
    NOTE: Trim the vinyl so it’s about ½” larger on each side than the design area, then place it pretty-side up on a green StandardGrip machine mat so it covers the design area on the screen.
17. When the cuts to the vinyl are complete, unload the mat, but keep the vinyl on the mat.
    TIP: It can be easier to weed vinyl, especially small, detailed designs, while it is still adhered to the machine mat.
18. Use your weeding tool to carefully peel away the extra background vinyl.
    
    
19. Poke your weeding tool into small sections of the vinyl you want to remove. Gently lift the tool away from the design to remove the excess vinyl.
    TIP: Make sure you do not pull up any pieces you want to keep! If they come up, gently pat them back in place and try again. Refer back to the Design Space screen if you’re not sure which pieces to remove.
    
    
20. Continue to weed until all that is left is the vinyl for your design.
    
    
21. Flip your mat over onto your work surface, and roll it back to release the vinyl decal.
22. Follow steps 5-11 to cut your cardstock mat.
23. Place all of your cut pieces face up on your work surface.
    
    

STEP 3: INK YOUR CUT PIECES

1. Check the safety information and specific instructions for your alcohol inks, including putting on safety equipment such as goggles, an apron, and disposable gloves, and using a fan or opening a window to improve ventilation.
2. Put several layers of butcher paper on your work surface to protect it.
   NOTE: Most spots can be cleaned up with rubbing alcohol, but the inks can stain some surfaces.
3. Place one of the alcohol ink paper layers on top of the butcher paper.
4. Double-check that the paper is in the correct orientation and the correct side is facing up, using your Design Space Canvas for reference. Each pair of colored layers are mirror-images of one another, so be sure to ink the correct sides of your paper.
   TIP: To avoid confusion, I recommend inking one pair of matching mirrored layers at a time.
5. Gather your blending solution and the alcohol inks you want to use.
   
   NOTE: Use your Canvas in Cricut Design Space to determine which color or color scheme to ink each layer.
   TIP: Ink the layers by color group; choose ink colors that are similar to the layer’s base color in Cricut Design Space so each layer stands out in your finished project.
   For the Fox design, I used warm orange tones for the body, soft yellow tones for the outer ring, and pearl and silver tones for the white details. The green cardstock center layer fills in the leaves and the Fox’s eyes.
   For the Bird design, I used pearl and yellow tones for the body accents and eye, orange and yellow tones for the chest and outer ring, and blue tones for the head, wings, and outer ring. The green cardstock center layer fills in the leaves and branch.
   For the Hedgehog design, I used yellow tones for the flower and outer ring, a little bit of gold on chest and quill tips, and copper, gold, and yellow tones for the body, quills, and outer ring. The green cardstock center layer fills in the flower stems.
   
6. Shake each of the bottles well to mix the liquid, then uncap them so they’re ready to use when you need them.
   TIP: Metallic alcohol inks need an extra good shake because their heavier pigments like to settle at the bottom. Before you use a metallic bottle, shake it until you hear the little mixer ball rattling around inside. That’s your sign the ink is ready to use.
7. Add a few drops of your chosen inks one at a time until the surface of the paper is mostly covered. The inks stay wet for about 30 seconds to 1 minute, depending on your room’s environment.
   
   TIP: You can also add several drops of blending solution before the inks for a more fluid result.
   TIP: When you add more colors, you’ll notice that it “pushes” the existing color out and away from it and toward the edges. If you want a certain color on the edge, put it on first. If you want a particular color in the middle, put it on last.
8. Apply a few drops of blending solution to the heavily inked areas to push the colors around.
   
   TIP: If you add several drops of blending solution, you can “erase” the ink in some areas. It may leave a faint tint behind, though, so the surface likely won’t return to a completely pure white.
9. Use a blower tool or straw to gently move the inks around on the paper while they’re still wet.
   
   
10. You can add more ink and blending solution, just keep in mind it may reactivate some of the earlier inks that have begun to dry.
11. Let the paper sit until the alcohol evaporates, leaving the colorful inks in place.
    TIP: My inks dried completely in about 30 minutes, but your results may vary.
12. Repeat steps 3-11 to ink your remaining alcohol ink paper layers.
    TIP: If the colors don’t turn out how you hoped, you can use a pipette to apply a few drops of rubbing alcohol on the paper, then use a paper towel to lift and remove much of the ink, even after it’s dried.
    
    

STEP 4: APPLY THE VINYL STAINED GLASS DESIGN TO THE ACETATE

1. Once everything is dry, remove your protective gear and clean up your work surface so any excess ink doesn’t get on your pieces during assembly.
2. Place one of your weeded vinyl decals face up on your work surface.
3. Cut a piece of StandardGrip transfer tape about an inch larger on all sides than the vinyl decal.
   
   
4. Remove the backing from the transfer tape.
5. Apply the transfer tape to the vinyl decal by holding the transfer tape in the shape of a taco or “U” shape. Then, put the bottom of your “taco” onto the middle of your design.
   
   
6. Smooth the transfer tape over the decal from the center outward.
   TIP: This minimizes wrinkles and bubbles.
7. Use your scraper to burnish the transfer tape to the vinyl on both sides.
8. Cut a piece of parchment paper about the same size as your transfer tape.
   
   
9. Remove the backing from the vinyl, leaving the transfer tape and vinyl design sticky-side up on your work surface.
10. Apply the parchment paper to the sticky side of the decal and transfer tape.
11. Fold the parchment down from the top to expose the “hanger” and the design’s top curved edge
    
    
12. Align the unprotected side of an acetate piece on the decal using the hangers and top edges.
    TIP: Make sure the curve of the acetate lines up with the curve of the vinyl all the way around so the rest of the shapes will align correctly.
    
    
13. Carefully flip the stacked layers over so the acetate is against the work surface.
14. Use one hand to press the exposed transfer tape near the hanger down onto the work surface to keep the aligned vinyl and acetate in place.
    
    
15. Use your other hand to flip the transfer tape and vinyl over the hanger like you’re opening a book.
    NOTE: Make sure the hanger sections are still securely aligned.
    
    
16. Carefully peel off the parchment paper from the rest of the decal and set it aside for now.
    
    
17. Grab your XL Scraper Tool and, beginning near the hanger, press and smooth the transfer tape and vinyl design down onto the acetate so the edges align.
    TIP: Be careful not to shift the acetate or the vinyl and transfer tape while you’re applying it.
    
    
18. Use your Scraper to fully burnish the vinyl onto the acetate layer.
    TIP: Burnish up and down toward the edges as you move left to right across the transfer tape to help prevent bubbles.
19. Slowly and carefully peel away the transfer tape, leaving the vinyl design on the acetate.
    TIP: Peel and roll the transfer tape parallel to the vinyl to prevent the vinyl from lifting off the acetate.
    NOTE: Set the transfer tape aside, sticky-side up, because we’ll reuse it again in a moment.
    
    
20. If there are any air bubbles between your vinyl and acetate, use your finger to push them outward and flatten the vinyl.
21. Turn the design over so the vinyl is against your work surface.
22. Place your second acetate piece unprotected-side-up and align its edges with those of the first acetate layer.
    NOTE: Make sure the hangers are aligned.
    
    
23. Use painter’s tape on either side to secure the acetate layers to your work surface.
    
    
24. Repeat steps 4-11 to apply transfer tape and parchment paper to the second piece of vinyl.
    NOTE: The parchment paper will cover the painter’s tape while you figure out the alignment.
25. Place the sticky side of the transfer tape onto the acetate, making sure the curve of the vinyl design lines up with the curve of the acetate all the way around.
    
    
26. Follow steps 14-20 to fully apply the vinyl, being sure to remove the painter’s tape as you go.
    
    
27. Now you have two mirrored acetate pieces decorated with vinyl that will hold everything else together.
    
    NOTE: When assembling the layers, the outer edges of the acetate and paper won’t perfectly align because the paper layers are slightly smaller than the acetate.
    

STEP 5: ASSEMBLE YOUR ALCOHOL INK PAPER STAINED GLASS LAYERS

1. Gather your alcohol ink paper layers and your cardstock layer.
   NOTE: If you’re making the Fox design, you should have one green cardstock layer and six alcohol ink paper layers: two orange-inked pieces, two white-inked pieces, and two yellow-inked pieces. If you inked any of them with different colors of ink, use your Canvas in Cricut Design Space to help you determine which layer is which.
2. Grab the green cardstock center piece, then sandwich it between the two orange-inked pieces, aligning the details on both sides. The orange pieces should be mirror images of each other on either side of the green piece.
   
   
3. Grab the two white-inked pieces, and layer them on either side of the stack, aligning their edges with the previous layers.
   
   
4. Repeat Step 3 with the two yellow-inked pieces on the outside of the stack.
   
   
5. Grab the two vinyl-decorated acetate pieces and sandwich them around the paper pieces, aligning the designs with the vinyl facing outwards.
   NOTE: Remember, the outer edges of the acetate and paper won’t perfectly align because the paper layers are slightly smaller than the acetate.
   
   
6. Check both sides of the stack and make sure that everything lines up.
7. Remove the acetate pieces and set them aside for now.
8. Set the paper layers down on your work surface, then flip the top yellow, white, and orange layers over to the side, like you’re opening a book.
9. Apply craft glue using a precision tip to the back of the orange layer.
   
   
10. Flip the orange layer over and adhere it to the green layer, aligning the edges, and pressing down gently to adhere the layers.
    TIP: If any glue seeps out, quickly wipe it away with your finger or a paper towel.
    
    
11. Flip the stack with the green layer over, and repeat steps 8-10 to adhere the second orange layer to this side of the stack, using the first orange layer to help align it.
12. Repeat steps 9-11 to attach both white-inked then both yellow-inked layers to the stack, using the previously attached layers to help align them.
    
    
    
13. Leave the paper stack to dry on your work surface for a few moments.
14. Remove any remaining protective film on the acetate pieces.
15. Make sure the sides with the vinyl attached are facing up, and grab the piece with the vinyl design that matches the orientation of the layer currently on the top of the stack.
    
    
16. Turn it vinyl-side down and place it on your work surface.
    
    
17. On the acetate piece, starting at the center of the design, apply craft glue along the black vinyl lines. Don’t take too long to apply the glue, as it can dry quickly. Avoid applying craft glue to the clear areas and the very outer ring of the design.
    
    
18. With the paper stack face up, apply craft glue around the outer ring of the paper only.
19. Turn the acetate piece over and adhere it to the paper stack, aligning the inner details of the design.
    
    
20. Turn the assembled stack over and grab the other vinyl-decorated acetate piece.
21. Repeat steps 15-19 to adhere it to the stack.
22. Use your craft glue’s precision tip to apply glue between the hanging loops, then gently press them together to adhere them.
    
    
23. Cut a piece of yarn or twine approximately 8” long.
24. Insert one end of the yarn through the hanger holes, tie the ends together, then trim the excess.
    
    

STEP 6: SHOW IT OFF!

Here’s what my finished alcohol ink paper stained glass project looks like!