How to Make a DIY Board Game Box for Custom Game Storage!

Instructions

STEP 1: GET MY FREE GAME BOX DESIGNS

First, download my DIY Board Game Box designs from my free library – look for Design #681. Alternatively, you can use the Save This Project form near the top of this post and the design link will be emailed to you.

In the SVG folder, you’ll find versions of my designs to cut on a cutting machine. There is also a DXF folder with cut files, and a PDF folder with versions you can print and cut by hand.

The designs are sized for the book boxes in my materials list, so you’ll find “small,” “medium,” and “large” file versions. There is also a “pieces” file with some common board game pieces you can use to create your own design!

Upload the SVG file you need to Design Space to get started. I’ll demonstrate with the large box and tile game design.

TIP: If you’re not sure how to upload, go to jennifermaker.com/svgs to learn how to unzip and upload SVG files.

STEP 2: PAINT YOUR BOARD GAME BOX

1. Cover your work surface with two layers of butcher paper to protect it.
2. Since we will only be painting the linen fabric part of the book box, completely cover the book box’s fake pages with painter’s tape. Be sure to protect the areas near the spine, against the cover edges, and along the inside liner of the box with the tape.
   
   
3. Remove any stickers from the book box.
4. Use a lint roller to remove any debris or loose fibers on the book box.
5. Put on a pair of disposable gloves to keep your hands clean while painting.
6. In a disposable measuring cup, add two parts acrylic paint to one part textile medium.
   TIP: Prepare more paint than you think you need to reduce color inconsistency from mixing multiple batches.
   NOTE: I’ll add 2 oz. of paint and 1 oz. of textile medium, which will make enough to cover my large box.
   
   
7. Add about one part tap water to the acrylic paint and textile medium in the cup, then use a paintbrush to combine the mixture until it is thin enough to drip off the brush easily. Add more water if needed to reach the right consistency.
   TIP: Use the smaller paintbrush for smaller boxes and the larger one for larger boxes.
   NOTE: Thinning out the paint results in a smoother application and requires less paint for full coverage.
   
   
8. Paint the front of the box with a smooth, even coat. It may be patchy at first, but keep painting.
   TIP: The fibers soak up a lot of paint very quickly. If you start to run out of paint, use the rest to finish the area you’re on. That way, if the second mix doesn’t quite match your current color, it won’t be as noticeable.
   
   
9. Turn the spine upward, and then paint it.
   TIP: Try to keep one gloved hand clean so you can use it to reposition the book as needed without getting it messy.
   
   
10. Then paint the back of the book box.
11. Open the box and paint around the inside edges, just on the light-colored fabric.
    
    
12. Make sure the thin edges and any hidden spots of fabric are painted, too.
    
    
13. Spotcheck for any unwanted bits of paint on the faux pages or the black liner before the paint dries completely, and use a wet paper towel with a drop of dish soap to remove any excess paint you find.
14. Stand the open box on end and let it dry for at least eight hours, rotating the book to its opposite end after 30-60 minutes to keep it from sticking to the butcher paper. Allow the box to dry for 24 hours for best results.
    TIP: Use the timer on your phone or a kitchen timer so you don’t forget to rotate!
    
    
15. One coat of paint should be enough to get full coverage, so dispose of the butcher paper once the book box is dry.
    

STEP 3: PREPARE AND CUT THE IRON-ON VINYL DECAL

CRICUT DESIGN SPACE

1. In Cricut Design Space, open a blank Canvas.
2. Click “Upload” and then “Upload Image.”
3. Click “Browse.”
4. Select the SVG you want to use.
   NOTE: I’ll choose the “large-tilegame” file.
5. Click “Open” and then “Continue.”
6. Click “Upload” to add the design to your Canvas.
   NOTE: If your project uploads differently than is shown on this page (with the layers stacked on top of each other vs spread out), this is intentional to make sure your design does not change sizes on you. If you prefer to use the unstacked version of the design files, upload one of the files in the “Unstacked” folder and then make sure your layers match these dimensions:
   game-box-large-tilegame-jennifermaker-SVG: 10.4" x 11"
   game-box-medium-dicegame-jennifermaker-SVG: 8" x 8.38"
   game-box-small-cards-jennifermaker-SVG: 4.96" x 5.75"
   
7. The cover design will be for the front of the book box's cover, and the vertical bar will be the game title for the book box's spine.
   
   
8. Click “Save” and give your project a name.
9. Use a ruler to measure the length and width of the box’s front cover. Record the dimensions.
10. Measure and record the spine’s dimensions, as well.
11. Check the size of the design files to make sure they’ll fit on the book cover and the spine when cut.
    NOTE: Remember to include your desired margins between the border of the design and the edges of your box. This design is meant to fit the large box in my supply list.
12. Click the “Ungroup” icon to ungroup the design.
13. If you’d like to resize an element, select it.
14. In the “Size” menu at the top, keep the “Lock” icon closed.
15. Click and drag one of the corner resizing handles on the element’s bounding box to make the design smaller or larger as needed while maintaining its proportions.
16. If you’d like to change a decal’s color, select that design in the Layers Panel. Then click the Color Box and choose a different color in the menu.
    
    
17. Your vinyl decals are ready to cut!
    

CUTTING

1. Make sure the correct machine is selected in the top right.
2. Click “Make.”
3. On the Prepare screen, make sure the correct Material Size is selected for your mat.
   NOTE: I’ll use the “12 in x 12 in” setting.
4. If needed, move the cover design and spine design apart so there is enough room to cut them apart with scissors later.
5. Toggle on “Mirror” since we’ll cut the design from heat transfer vinyl (HTV).
   
   
6. Click “Continue.”
7. On the Make screen, set the Base Material for your mats. I used the “Everyday Iron-On” setting with “More” Pressure with good results.
   TIP: Changing the Pressure to “More” results in a cleaner cut.
   
   
8. Place your iron-on vinyl shiny side down on a green StandardGrip machine mat.
   
   
9. Use a brayer to make sure it’s fully adhered.
10. Check that your Premium Fine-Point Blade is clean and in the clamp.
11. Press the flashing “Load/Unload” button to load the prepared mat into your Cricut.
12. Press the flashing “Go” button to begin cutting.
13. When the cuts are complete, unload the mat, flip it over onto your work surface, and roll it back to release the iron-on vinyl.
14. Use scissors to cut your design into separate pieces for the book cover and the spine.
    NOTE: Make sure you keep each section’s elements on a single piece of the carrier sheet!
15. Use your weeding tool to remove the excess vinyl around the designs and inside any letters. I like to work from larger to smaller sections during weeding.
    TIP: It can be easier to weed vinyl, especially small, detailed designs, while it is adhered to the machine mat.
    
    
16. Your decals are now ready to apply!
    
    

STEP 4: APPLY THE IRON-ON VINYL DECAL TO YOUR BOARD GAME BOX

1. Preheat your heat press.
   NOTE: I’ll use the Cricut EasyPress set to 340°F (171° C) with the timer set for five seconds. If you’re using a different heat press or type of iron-on vinyl, my HTV Cookbook has recipes for many combinations! You can find it at jennifermaker.com/htv-cookbook.
   
   
2. Place your (dry) painted book box on a solid surface. Make sure the front cover is on top and it opens the way you want. Keep it closed while applying the vinyl.
   
   
3. Use a lint roller to clean the front cover of your box.
4. Once your EasyPress is at temperature, cover the box with a sheet of white, uncoated butcher paper, then use the press to preheat the entire front cover for five seconds to remove moisture.
   NOTE: Always remember to place your press back on the base after use because it’s very hot.
5. Remove the butcher paper and allow the book box cover to cool.
6. Place the cover decal vinyl side down on the box’s front cover, making sure the border is an even distance from all the edges.
   TIP: If your alignment isn’t quite right, lift up the carrier sheet to move and reposition the decal.
   NOTE: If you’re unsure of the design’s orientation, refer back to your Design Space Canvas.
   
   
7. Press down on the sticky parts of the clear carrier sheet to keep it in place.
8. Tape down the carrier sheet’s corners with heat resistant tape to keep the decal in place while pressing.
   
   
9. Cover the box and decal with a sheet of white uncoated butcher paper.
10. Make sure the temperature of your EasyPress is at 340℉ (171℃), and set the timer for 60 seconds.
11. Heat the entire front cover decoration with strong pressure for 60 seconds.
    
    TIP: If you can’t heat the entire design at once, try to heat it evenly in sections without much overlap.
12. When the time is up, lift the press straight up and remove the butcher paper.
13. Allow the vinyl to cool, then slowly peel up the carrier sheet.
    
    
14. If any vinyl areas don’t stick well, replace the carrier sheet and re-press in 30 second increments until the vinyl is fully adhered, allowing time to cool between presses.
    NOTE: The thin pieces of vinyl around the border can be difficult to adhere, so pay extra attention to those areas.
    
    
15. Once the cover is done, set the box on its side with the spine facing up and the front cover facing away from you.
16. Place heavy items like books or other board games against both flat sides of the box to keep it upright.
    
    
    TIP: It helps to use items a little shorter than the box so the spine is a flat surface to press.
17. Use a lint roller to clean the box’s spine.
18. Set your heat press to 340℉ (171℃) and the timer to five seconds, then preheat the spine to remove moisture.
19. Allow the book box spine to cool.
20. Center the decal on the book’s spine, vinyl side down.
    TIP: Make sure the words are readable when the book’s cover is facing up, or if you tilt your head to the right when the book is standing face up with the spine facing you.
    
    
21. Repeat Steps 7-14 to press the vinyl decal to the spine.
    TIP: Even with the supports, the box might be a bit unsteady. Try to avoid moving the press around, and keep the box still. Remember, the press is hot!
22. Once the decals are fully adhered, your DIY Board Game Box is ready to go!
    
    

STEP 5: SHOW IT OFF

Your DIY Board Game Box is finished! Add your game pieces to your box, and store them on your bookshelf or wherever you like!